Deep Water Soloing at Banks Lake

I had a great time climbing with a bunch of friends at Banks Lake over the weekend, we headed out there to check out the deep water soloing. I had been out there a couple of years ago, and was impressed with the climbing but hadn't checked out the climbing out of the lake. Tony and I made the fun drive out there and met the rest of the group at a cabin we were renting for the weekend. It was a pretty big group there were 14 of us in total, we had enough canoes, kayaks and inflatables for all of us plus 3 dogs. We used the Washington Weekend Rock to find a couple of cliffs that looked good. The first place we climbed was on The Bunker a small rocky island near Roadside rock. We warmed up on a fun 15ft cliff that most people were able to top out. It was probably a V1 or so. Next I scoped out a sweet line close by on the Roadside Rock side of the Lake that started up a hand crack and topped out at around 30ft to a popular jumping spot. It was really fun, a little scary, but a fall anywhere on the route would be totally safe. Its hard to say how hard it was, everyone else got spat off by the tricky crack down low, probably 5.10-ish. Next we paddled out to the Tent and Awning Rock to do the 2 bolted routes there, you could climb them with a rope straight out of a canoe, or deep water solo them safely. I opted to rope up for the 10b, it was a pretty cool experience to be belayed out of a canoe. A bunch of people got up this one either on a rope or solo, it was really fun.  After that we canoed back to shore and headed back to the cabin for the usual climbing trip antics. On Sunday we were feeling like getting on some longer terrestrial routes, so I took the group up to the beautiful Northrup Canyon. Everyone seemed to have a good time, especially Rachel who couldn’t stop raving about Dr. Ceuse, one of the most picturesque 5.10’s I’ve done. This was the perfect trip for the summer. I’m definitely interested in heading back to check out more potential for deep water soloing there, it is a big lake and there is lots of rock! Here are some of my friends photos that I stole that will give you a better idea of the climbing.

.

Jumping off the little cliff on The Bunker that we bouldered up.

Justin bouldering around

Starting up a sweet line. It may be an FA, we broke off a good amount of rock down low. Its really good though.

Good holds mid way lead to a balancey top out.

I was really hoping I wouldn't fall here. The scariest part was probably jumping off from the top.

Sara soloing ground-up (or should that be water-up) on After the Gold Rush a fun bolted 10b.

Rachel at her high point.

I opted to have Tony belay me up it, it felt much safer.

The cabin we stayed at, it was pretty nice.

Me climbing a longer route at Northrup Canyon. Next time I'm bringing a spare chalk bag.

Rachel reaching the top of Dr. Ceuse an amazing 10b.

The whole group at Northrup Canyon.

Day Tripping

I've been climbing a lot in the last week. I haven't gone on any big trips, rather I've been getting out on day trips with different partners who could make it out. I finally checked out a much talked about new crag South of Olympia. I was very impressed, it is a unique crag in that it is unlike any other rock type in the area. The closest thing I can equate it to is Elwah Wall up by Port Angeles. It is a 100ft tall sandstone crag with crazy water sculpted features like huge huecos, pockets and tufa's on a continuously overhanging wall. I went up there with two young psyched guys Nathan and Tom, who I look forward to climbing with again. The photos make it look pretty incredible and it is, but it also suffers from some very sandy holds, questionable bolting, and soft rock in places. Hopefully it will clean up nicely. I'm not sure about access, that's why I haven't included its name or location. The crag is still a work in progress, there is still a good amount of bolting and cleaning to do here. I heard Nathan bolted a sweet looking line the following day.

The Crag is the light colored rock behind me, the approach isn't too bad.

Phew! Its steep and long!

Lots of jugs and rests.

One of the better routes on the wall. A long pumpy 11c.

Fun tufa climbing, the one on the right is a 10c and the one on the left is 11a, but they felt about the same to me.

On Monday I hooked up with Chas and we climbed at a well known crag North of Seattle. This is another crag that has access issues, so I wont publish its name. I was very impressed with the crag, it had similar climbing to Little Si, but the rock had more texture, and was more consistent. I managed to onsight a classic 12a, but got worked on some harder 12's. I really wish this crag was closer to Olympia. Its probably still worth the 3 hour drive a few times more this summer.

Chas working the 12a.

The rock is as good as it looks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I stayed over at Chas' new place in Issaquah which is really nice. What is even nicer was the 20 minute drive from his place to the parking at Exit 38. If I had that commute I would be there every day. We climbed on the Far Side. Did some classics I'd done before, climbed some new routes not in the guide, I think only one was new to me, its so hard to keep track of climbs that I got on years ago.

The next day Austin and Chris were going back up there, so I joined them. We did some new routes, but spent most of the day flailing on an offwidth roof 12a. I had been on it years ago, and had vague recollections of thinking I should never get on it again. Chris seemed to like it though.

Austin climbing, Chris belaying. Can you name the climb?

Austin hanging on a cool (but hard) roof 12a at the Far Side of exit 38.

The following day was Chris' birthday so we got an early start and ticked off a bunch of routes in the Deception Wall area. I redpointed Stick Boy, which is probably the worst 12a I've ever done. Then we checked out the new(ish) Shakespeare Wall further up the hill which was pretty fun. We celebrated his birthday and his 100th route of the year with a few cold beers in the sun. It was a great day out.

I'm finally taking a much needed rest day after six days on. But I'm headed out this evening for a weekend trip to Banks Lake, I'm hoping I don't get burned too badly (by the routes and the sun). I'll leave you with a video of Chris throwing an Ondra-style hissy fit after falling off the 12a roof. (Warning: foul language).

Another Tieton Adventure

I spent the weekend back at Tieton with some good friends. It seems the more time I spend there the more I fall in love with that place. On Saturday I climbed some of the longer routes at Astral Wall, they are simply amazing, it feels like you are climbing forever. Starting out a route with 20 draws on your harness is a bizarre feeling, good thing the cruxes aren't low! I sent the classic of the crag - Whitewashed second go. It felt a good deal harder than the 11's, and on the onsight attempt I missed the good holds at the crux. Once I figured out the right beta it felt much easier. I gave Nick the beta and he managed the flash. We had the crag to ourselves, which was a good thing because there ended up being a dozen or so of us up there from Olympia. Everyone was blown away by the crag.

After a good bonfire that night we parted ways the next morning. Nick, Jeremy, Chris and I headed to The Chunkyard. I was a little weary of introducing them to this crag since it isn't the most aesthetic. But once they were on the routes, they were raving about it! Jeremy managed to take a 20 footer fall and flipped on the warm up, so he ended up just toproping the rest of the day. But Chris and I worked our way down the crag, and ticked all 11 routes in a day, we had so much fun. We laughed and joked the whole drive back to Olympia, it was one of the best trip I've had in a while. I'm already looking forward to the next one.

Here's some photos I stole off of my friends' facebook pages.

Nick onsighting the awesome Mars Bar (11c)

On the way to The Chunkyard

Me climbing another great route at The Chunkyard

Jeremy, Nick, Me and Chris at the end of an awesome weekend!