Climbing in January

When friends wanted to climb last week, I was eager but skeptical since it is still January. Tyler Austin and I biked out to Fossil Rock, for only my second visit there. We were surprised to find other climbers there, but there were plenty of dry routes to get on, and it was surprisingly nice in the sun. I was feeling a little out of shape, I fell on an 11c to left of Battle of the Bulge, which I know I would have done with ease if I was climbing regularly. But still managed to get up some other fun routes. We had one golf ball sized pebble pop off and nearly get me, but despite that constant threat, I still enjoyed the climbing. I'm keen to get back there, there's a good handful of routes that I've yet to get on, and now I know that its fine to climb there in the winter.

Austin sending Battle of the Bulge

The view from the crag

Me enjoying the vertical crimpy test pieces

Fossil Rock

Yesterday Laura and I got out climbing with Doug. We went to Fossil Rock for our first time. Although Fossil is relatively close we had never visited it because of reports it's a big choss pile. I can see now why people would write it off as that because of its appearance, but there are actually some great solid routes which are really fun to climb. Doug had been there several times so was able to show us around. After the half hour bike in we started out at Boyal Bobbins Wall where we did a few 5.8's and 5.9's. The rock here looked very suspect, but Doug assured me it was totally solid and had never seen a hold pop. Only a few moves into my first route though I popped off a golfball sized foothold, thankfully this was the only hold popping incident of the day.

Laura starting up a route on the Boyal Bobbins Wall

It seemed to me the harder the route the more solid the holds were and the better the climbing was. We did a fun 10a then moved on to the classic of the crag 'Battle of the Bulge' an 11a. I got the onsight, despite messing up the crux sequence and getting pumped. Laura and Doug both managed it clean on toprope, so Laura figured why not go for the lead since she knew she could do the moves and the clips were ok. It was a real battle for her going through the fingery and powerful bulge, but she managed to stick the moves and pulled through to complete one of her hardest routes yet. It was her first 11a in almost a year, since last summer in Europe, and almost certainly her hardest lead in N. America. I could see it coming from the way she has been climbing in the gym. I'm sure this will be the first of many hard climbs for her this summer.

Me on Battle of the Bulge a great 11a

After that we headed around the corner where we all did a 5.9. Then I tried Sketchmaster 5.12a as the last route of the day. It didn't look too bad from the ground, but once on the route it was very thin, balancy and surprisingly pumpy. I came close to coming off a few times, but held it together and clipped the chains for the onsight. It was a great route to finish off a great day on. I certainly changed my perception of Fossil Rock and will for sure be back there again soon.