A big day out

I'm back in the swing of climbing after one of my longest breaks since I started climbing. Climbing in the gym last week and hanging on a 10c was discouraging, but my fitness usually comes back quickly and I don't typically perform well in there anyway. Yesterday Chris and I hiked up to Bob's Area at Exit 38 with a plan to climb a lot. I love climbing with Chris, its always a lot of fun and we make a good team climbing really efficiently. We had managed 8 routes each by the time we took a break for lunch at noon. We finished off all the routes at the Peannacle then headed up to Slumbersome Ridge. Not all the routes we did were easy, I climbed an 11d that I had tried and failed on in the past, and I onsighted/flashed a couple of 11c's as my 17th and 18th route of the day. The hardest route I did that day though was the 10d at The Stein. It was really overgrown with moss, and I found myself dynoing between mossy ledges skipping bolts because I couldn't take a hand off to clip, luckily I sent it! We even did a few trad routes despite not bringing a rack. The final tally for the day for me was 22 routes led cleanly which surpasses my old record, only 12 of them were new to me though. Chris led 19 routes, all of his were new. I've now climbed everything at Bob's Area with the exception of an unclimbable overgrown 10b crack. I love big days out like this, it makes we want to do more. I think I could beat this record if I planned it out, but if I want to do new routes I'd have to find different crags. Its something I could see myself getting in to, there are even competitions like this that I know I would love.

A well earned homebrew in a beautiful spot. This is why I love climbing!

Stoked for my Big Trip

I leave on my New Zealand/Fiji trip in a couple of hours, and I so excited!

In the last few weeks I haven't done too much climbing. I've been getting in to other things, preparing for this trip and making the most of the nice weather. I went scuba diving with Tony in the Sound, mountain biking with Chas and Tyler, fishing with a bunch of guys for Chas' bachelor party. Anthony a good friend from Scotland visited recently which was a lot of fun. I've even started running regularly, I feel in great shape, and its helped me shed 9 pounds in the last two months. Here are some photo's of what I've been up to recently.

I got out climbing at Nevermind with Chas and Tyler, I repeated a bunch of stuff.

Tyler and Chas cruised the classic Steep Street, and the both came close on Culture Shock.

Getting ready to go spearfishing!

No cabezon or crab, but it was still a fun dive.

It took some goading to do this jump, but it was worth it.

Salmon fishing off the coast on a charter boat.

Fishing for rockfish at the Westport jetty.

In New Zealand I'm visting Anthony who lives there now. We're adventuring around the North Island, skiing, surfing and mountain biking before flying down to the South Island for more skiing and partying. I'm hoping to boulder at the awesome Castle Hill, its somewhere I've wanted to climb at for a while, and the friction should be awesome right now. I'm also looking forward to seeing my friend Melody who is on the North Island. After a couple of weeks there, I'm flying up to Fiji for a week. I think I'm the most excited for this part of the trip. I booked a week at this dive resort including 10 dives. The area is world famous for diving, there's tons of different dive sites, from wrecks to shark dives, and soft coral, all with 100ft+ visibility this time of year! I'm really excited just to be around the traveller/backpacker scene, its been too long since I've done a trip like this. Hopefully I'll be able to update my blog mid-trip through my iPhone, I'll definitely be taking lots of photos. Well I better get on my way to the airport.

Day Tripping

I've been climbing a lot in the last week. I haven't gone on any big trips, rather I've been getting out on day trips with different partners who could make it out. I finally checked out a much talked about new crag South of Olympia. I was very impressed, it is a unique crag in that it is unlike any other rock type in the area. The closest thing I can equate it to is Elwah Wall up by Port Angeles. It is a 100ft tall sandstone crag with crazy water sculpted features like huge huecos, pockets and tufa's on a continuously overhanging wall. I went up there with two young psyched guys Nathan and Tom, who I look forward to climbing with again. The photos make it look pretty incredible and it is, but it also suffers from some very sandy holds, questionable bolting, and soft rock in places. Hopefully it will clean up nicely. I'm not sure about access, that's why I haven't included its name or location. The crag is still a work in progress, there is still a good amount of bolting and cleaning to do here. I heard Nathan bolted a sweet looking line the following day.

The Crag is the light colored rock behind me, the approach isn't too bad.

Phew! Its steep and long!

Lots of jugs and rests.

One of the better routes on the wall. A long pumpy 11c.

Fun tufa climbing, the one on the right is a 10c and the one on the left is 11a, but they felt about the same to me.

On Monday I hooked up with Chas and we climbed at a well known crag North of Seattle. This is another crag that has access issues, so I wont publish its name. I was very impressed with the crag, it had similar climbing to Little Si, but the rock had more texture, and was more consistent. I managed to onsight a classic 12a, but got worked on some harder 12's. I really wish this crag was closer to Olympia. Its probably still worth the 3 hour drive a few times more this summer.

Chas working the 12a.

The rock is as good as it looks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I stayed over at Chas' new place in Issaquah which is really nice. What is even nicer was the 20 minute drive from his place to the parking at Exit 38. If I had that commute I would be there every day. We climbed on the Far Side. Did some classics I'd done before, climbed some new routes not in the guide, I think only one was new to me, its so hard to keep track of climbs that I got on years ago.

The next day Austin and Chris were going back up there, so I joined them. We did some new routes, but spent most of the day flailing on an offwidth roof 12a. I had been on it years ago, and had vague recollections of thinking I should never get on it again. Chris seemed to like it though.

Austin climbing, Chris belaying. Can you name the climb?

Austin hanging on a cool (but hard) roof 12a at the Far Side of exit 38.

The following day was Chris' birthday so we got an early start and ticked off a bunch of routes in the Deception Wall area. I redpointed Stick Boy, which is probably the worst 12a I've ever done. Then we checked out the new(ish) Shakespeare Wall further up the hill which was pretty fun. We celebrated his birthday and his 100th route of the year with a few cold beers in the sun. It was a great day out.

I'm finally taking a much needed rest day after six days on. But I'm headed out this evening for a weekend trip to Banks Lake, I'm hoping I don't get burned too badly (by the routes and the sun). I'll leave you with a video of Chris throwing an Ondra-style hissy fit after falling off the 12a roof. (Warning: foul language).

The Return of the Sun

Over Spring break I didn't get as many days out climbing as I was hoping for, partly due to the weather, but I also just needed a rest. I did get out for two days at Vantage. Tony, Laura and I headed out to Vantage and climbed for a day just the three of us. It was a great day, we managed to get a number of routes in even thought it was just the three of us. Then the next day we were joined by a few others. It was a beautiful couple of days in the sun.

The following Saturday the forecast showed sun again so I picked up Andrew from Seattle and we headed out to the Far Side of Exit 38. I had long wanted to climb the multipitch routes at Neverland, so we went out there and ended up having the crag to ourselves. We did the 3 pitch route The Plank (5.9, 10a, 5.7) which was really good, I led the first two pitches, the first was a little seepy, but the second was sublime. We also did a 3 pitch 5.9,5.9, 10c, and a two pitch 10c, 10c. I was really impressed with this small crag, the rock was generally very good, and it felt great to get up high on some routes. It was also really nice to have the whole place to ourselves.

Leading the awesome 10a pitch of The Plank

Enjoying the view, about halfway up Neverland

 Last Saturday called for another good weather day, so I texted around and found a partner in Jeremy. We decided to head to the Deception area. It had been a while since I climbed at this area, I tend to avoid it because of the crowds and associated sketchiness. But there were a number of routes I hadn't done there yet, and it was Jeremy's first time there so I could bring him wherever. I got on a couple of neglected little gems, like Won't Get Fooled Again, a sweet 10a that starts up on Deception Ledge. I also got a surprise at the chains of The Overture an 11a high on deception wall, when I was stared down by nesting peregrine falcon. I got out of there pretty quick. In all we managed to lead 10 routes (9 of which were new to me). I've decided to keep a running tally of the total number of routes I've climbed on the sidebar here ----> Hopefully that will keep my motivation for getting on new routes up. Not that I need it right now. Tomorrow I'm headed out to Vantage with a big crew, it should be a fun weekend, but I don't think I'm going to manage the huge haul of 19 routes in a day I did this time last year.

Escaping the Heat

It definitely wasn't the last weekend of summer last weekend. Saturday and Sunday were hot in Olympia, it was one of those weekends where I really felt glad to be living where I am, especial when I talk to my folks about the weather back back home. On Saturday Steve and I got out climbing at Amazonia at Exit 38. It is one of the coolest (literally) places to climb in the area. It was completely shaded and in great condition. I finished the last routes I had left to do at that crag. Some of which were great (the 10d on the far left) and some not so great (the 10d on the far right). We also climbed Giant one of my all time favorites routes at the Actual Cave.

On Sunday I headed out to Lake Cushman with a few others from Olympia. In all my time in Olympia I had never made the 1 hour drive out to Lake Cushman, and now I really regret it. I can't think of a better place to go to escape the heat in Olympia. There is even some climbing there, its not great, but the swimming and sunbathing defiantly makes it worth the trip. Unfortunately the weather this weekend doesn't look as promising, but if its dry I plan on getting out somewhere.


Justin at Lake Cushman



Not the best climbing, but worth bringing a rope for.

Shangri-La

I check out a new area at Exit 38 called Shangri-La with James yesterday. There's some information here and here about this new crag. I had heard tales of this rock being amongst the best quality at 38 and comparable to Index, with long routes and even some trad. So we went with high expectations, and we were not disappointed. The routes are long and very involving, and you need your full bag of tricks for them.

James at Shangri-La. Its hard to get a good photo of the crag.

We warmed up on a 10cish climb called Crouching Tiger, it was a really fun technical route on grippy slopers. Next up was History Book a 10a corner crack. I had to do a bit of gardening on my way up (its much cleaner now), but it was still pretty enjoyable, despite my at times questionable gear placements. My favorite route on this wall was Hidden Dragon, a long and devious 11c or so. I had to use every inch of my 5'8" +1 reach on a couple of spots. It was so much fun to be climbing pure onsight, with not a dab of chalk on the route, figuring out moves and improvising beta on the fly. The most challenging route I did was Hypertension, which starts up a V4ish boulder problem start that involves a painful pinky jam, that I finally figured out after using an excessive amount of tape. Its not over there though, it makes you think all the way to the chains, where I opted to reach out left manteling bad slopers to lunge for a thank god jug, I normally climb quietly and efficiently but this route required a couple of power screams, I'm glad I didn't blow it at the end. This route gets 5.11+, but it'd be one of my hardest ever 5.11's. I think 12a may be more appropriate.

James follows up Small Arms Fire

We checked out the rest of the routes there, some of which look very good, some of which need a lot more cleaning, there is potential for even more routes there. We finished up on a fun 10b Small Arms Fire, which is a rap in-climb out, route, a great way to finish off the day.

Back on the rock

Its been a while since I last wrote a blog simply because I haven't been out much lately. In fact I think I had four weeks without any climbing outside, which is unheard of for me this time of year. There's a few reasons, the main one being the weather has been pretty atrocious here for the start of summer, we don't have a car so have to rely on others for rides, I was really busy with school at the start of June and since then the world cup has taken priority over some climbing days. Enough excuses, I hope to be getting out a lot more this summer.

I went climbing at the quarry for only the second time this year on wednesday, it wasn't completely dry, but it was getting there. It was good to get the feel for the routes there again, Laura redpointed The Manly Wham for the first time, I wonder what else she can send down there this summer. Then on friday I climbed up at Little Si with Jimmy, Lisa, Laura ,Andrew and Micah. It was a good day out, mostly dry. I realized I need to improve a lot on my stamina, I couldn't even repeat Technorigine, but I did manage to figure out how to do the crux on Chronic, I'm still a long way off that though. Andrew has been climbing really well recently and sent Aborigine on his second go, Laura should have sent too, but she took on the last moves, the redpoint crux.

Then on Sunday I got out to Exit 38 with Laura, Sierra, Melody, Justin, Sara, Sarah and Erica. It was a really good day out. We hung out at Interstate Park which everyone seemed to like, I finished up a few routes I hadn't done there before, including a couple of new ones that aren't in the guide. I did a really steep burly climb that was a lot of fun, I reckon it was 11+ish, but its hard to say. Laura did well, cleaning up a 10c that she had tried previously, and climbing her first onsight of an 11a! Justin and Sierra also got flashes of the 11a, so it was a good day all around. We finished off the day stopping off at the Harmon Brewery in Tacoma for some delicious microbrews and all you can eat fish and chips mmm.

I plan on getting a car soon which will make trips a lot easier and now that it seems like the summer has finally arrived it should mean a lot more climbing, especially as the world cup winds down. So, hopefully it wont be as long a wait til my next blog entry.

The Slow Loris Strikes Again

The awesome threesome did it again for a Saturday Little Si/Exit 38 combo. It was a beautiful day and not surprisingly the parking lots were overflowing, at Little Si so we were forced to park illegally (and get a ticket). It was the busiest I had ever seen it, but I guess they were all hikers because miraculously when we got to World Wall I we had the place to ourselves. Laura riding her new wave of confidence got a clean toprope of Psycho-Wussy then got on the sharp end and fired it off with no problem. This is a pretty big deal considering she's been trying it since 2007, its only her third ever 11b, and probably her hardest route to date, but the ease with which she climbed it makes me think its just a stepping stone to harder things at World Wall I. She made good progress on Rainy Day Women as well, one-hanging it on toprope, so you never know. I suddenly feel like a slacker. At Exit 38 we checked out the Neverland area, which I hadn't been to before, it was worthwhile and we did a handful of 5.10's. I think doing both little Si and 38 in a day is a good way to keep it interesting and get a lot of stuff done. Here's some portraits I snapped of the awesome threesome.

Laura the Slow Loris
Micah the Orangutan

Dom the Koala

Group Shot

Here's a cool photo I stole off of Erica's Facebook page of our group that got out climbing on Sunday.

We went to Exit 38, it was a pretty chill day, I think most of us were still recovering from Sarah's birthday party the night before. Nevertheless we got a lot done. I got in some good 5.10's and 11's that I hadn't done before at Nevermind. Laura did a new 10b, c, and d in a day. Melody led her first 5.9, and Bill showed us how it was done with some relaxed flashes and onsights of everything he tried up to 12a. Its been really fun to go out climbing with more people and a more varied group this summer. I hope we have more days like Sunday. Here is another photo I took on Sunday of Laura at Nevermind.

5.13 Eh?

On Saturday I climbed Crawling From the Wreckage my second ever 5.13 rated route, my first in North America. It all began last Friday, I caught a ride up to Exit 38 with Micah, Nick, Erica and Greg. We hiked up to Bob's Area where we warmed up on a couple of 10's at Lost Resort. Micah really wanted to check out the 13a there that we had seen a couple of years ago. It was a lot different than I had remembered, a lot steeper and harder looking. Its 20 degrees overhanging the whole way, very featured but it looks like all the holds are sloping the wrong way. Once we were warmed up I volunteered to go first and put up the draws. The start is really nice, the first three clips are technical 5.10+ climbing to a good rest below the third clip. Then from there you bust straight into the crux, which is a V4 deadpoint move to a small three finger crimp, except that on my first go I had no idea how to do the move, it wasn't until later that I figured out a sequence that worked there. From there you make a series of big moves off of small but positive holds, its really fun climbing. Then you get to a point where you have to use two bad opposing pinches to slap up to a big sloper, that is probably the redpoint crux, then from the sloper you have to make a hard clip and then its a series of crimpy moves up to a victory jug, which is still really hard when your pumped. I managed to put up all the draws and get to the chains on my first go which was a good mental barrier to overcome so quickly. Micah took his turn and we exchanged beta, refining our sequence. Nick then showed up from warming up with Erica down below, and he hopped on. He loved it as well, making good progress using our beta. We were all feeling pretty worked by then so figured we better move on and try some easier stuff. I decided to toprope it one last time, to take out the bottom draws and replace some so that we had leaver draws for the next time we got on it. I surprised myself by getting it clean on toprope, which was definitely a confidence booster. We moved on up the hill to some other crags, but Micah and I vowed to come back to work on this route more. Up at Slumbersome Ridge we did a handful of other routes which were good fun, we had the whole crag to ourselves. Erica had the idea to bring a stove and food up to make a curry which at first I thought was pretty crazy, but it was really nice eating some good food and some wine before the walk down.

Micah on the technical start of Crawling from the Wreckage

Mmm dinner!

The next day Micah and I were really tired, but we knew we had to go back up there and strike while the iron was hot. Laura came along too and the three of us made the long hike up again. The day got off to a good start with Laura redpointing her project at Amazonia on the way up, an 11a that she looked really smooth on. When we eventually made it up to the climb I was absolutely exhausted, I wasn't even sure if I would get on the climb. But after a bit of a rest and some food, we warmed up on some other climbs then went for it. I had been going over the beta in my head the whole walk up so I knew I had the sequence dialed. I got up to the rest at the 3rd clip took a shake, looked up at the moves ahead and went for it. The next few moves went by so quickly and before I knew it I was on the sloper making the crux clip, just a few more moves to go, I wasn't even feeling that pumped. I got up to the victory jug, but I didn't celebrate yet, I wanted to make sure I clipped the chains first, and I did! Project sent! It was more of a relief to have it sent first go of the day, as I knew I probably couldn't match that attempt again on that day, its short but really intense. Micah was shocked that I did it so quickly, and part of me felt that I had let him down in a way by not working on it longer with him, but I was really glad to have it done. Micah gave it a few goes with long rests in between, but he was having trouble keeping the pump at bay going into the crux. We tried a couple other climbs at Peannacle during his rests, and Laura managed an onsight of a 10d there! This was her hardest onsight in over a year, so understandably she was really pleased. Micah didn't manage the send on that day, but he has the sequence down, so it is only a matter of time now.

You'll get it soon Micah!

Double Whammy

Friday was a beautiful day outside, it was one of those days that makes you glad to be a climber. There were five of us heading out, (the third trip in a row where I went out with 5 people in a car) Me, Laura, Melody, Micah and Greg. The plan was to do both Little Si and Exit 38 in a day. We had a late start cause it was really hot out (90 degrees) and we wanted to wait til the crags were in the shade. It worked and we were the first to arrive at World Wall I just as it was going in the shade. Micah gave PC7 a good burn, falling just two moves from the victory jug, which is really good considering the temps. Laura stepped up and repeated both 5.9's there, Reptiles and Devil's Advocate, she cruised them. It was an important mental barrier for her to overcome since it had been so long since she had led them last. And I did the 2nd pitch of Dreaming of a Life of Ease which is a really fun route, I can't believe I hadn't done this one before. I also got a good burn on my project Californicator, and got to a new highpoint just before the 6th clip. I figured out better beta at the 4th clip, and only came off cause of a foot pop, I didn't even feel all that pumped. We wrapped it up there and headed down the road to Exit 38, where we spend the second half of the day. Sorry for the lack of photos, I forgot my camera, check out Micah's blog for photos.

At 38 we went straight to Nevermind, it had been a couple of years since I was last there which is too bad cause its a fun little crag, and there's a few routes that I've yet to do there. First off I put the draws up on Steep Street (11a) which is a great route to repeat, straight out of the gym. Laura tied into the sharp end and dispatched it first try of the day for her 2nd 11a of the summer! She had tried it a few times on lead and toprope a couple of years ago, but didn't have what it took then, so it was good for her to take care of old business. Greg then got the redpoint straight afterwards, it was an impressive lead considering it was pretty much his 4th ever lead outside. He needs to get on the lead more often now that we know what he's capable of. We did a few other routes down at the other end of the crag, Micah finished up a mini-proj of his, Shocklet which starts up Culture Shock 12a, and finished with the crux of Goblet 12b, he thinks it weighs in at about 12b. It looks like fun, I'll have to try it sometime, on Friday I tried Goblet. It was harder than I gave it credit for, I gave it 2 burns and I have the beta down now, so hopefully it'll go next time. As it started to get dark at Nevermind we headed down to Substation to finish up on some fun shorter routes. I don't know if I was just really tired by this point but I struggled a LOT on a 10d there called Subversive. I remember I had tried this climb on my very first time outside in Washington when I first arrived here 3 years ago and got shut down. Now I'm not surprised, cause it is HARD, I just barely got it by the skin of my teeth. Greg and Laura both led a cool short 5.9 and Melody decided to do her first lead on a route called Homo Erectus (5.6). Now anyone who has done this will know that this is not the best route for trying your first lead on, since it has insecure climbing on slopey holds and is quite run out in places. But she got in the zone and sent it no problem, props Melody! We were all pretty beat by this point so we headed back to Olympia, but not before stopping off for some dipped cones in North Bend. It was a really good day out, I think combining Little Si and 38 in a day is definitely the way to go.

A weekend of onsights

After a tough week back in class I really wanted to get outside climbing so Laura and I decided to go out just the two of us to Bob's Area at Exit 38. This time the hour walk in didn't seem so brutal, maybe we're getting fitter or maybe we were just better prepared for it this time. Once we got up we started out on the Peannacle, a short outcropping with lots of easier fun climbs. We did a few, my favorites being Peanut Brittle (5.8) and Gallivant (10a). Then we headed up the hill a bit to Alpina, I had never climbed on this crag either, its a really good little crag with 4 routes on it, a 10b,11a,11b, and 11d. Laura onsighted the 10b (nice job!) which I think makes that her 5th 10b onsight in a little over a month, not bad. I onsighted the rest of the routes at Alpina, they were all great, deceptively technical and harder than they look from the ground. I finished off the day with another 11a at Slumbersome Ridge, I think I led 10 new routes in total, and there's plenty more at Bob's Area to go back to. It was really great to get out just the two of us, sometimes 2 people is just perfect for getting a lot of routes done and enjoying the peacefulness at the crag.
The view from Bob's Area

Saturday we took a rest day, and I finished off some homework, we planned an early start the next day to go climbing. But that didn't stop us from going out Saturday night (see photo below).
Laura showing off her karaoke skills

Sunday, we didn't get out quite as early as planned, but the days are long so there was no rush. Micah drove me Laura, Jimmy and Chaz, south down 1-5 to check out a new crag, Ozone. Ozone is in the Columbia River Gorge near Portland on the Washington side, it has just been developed in the last few years, and is a really fun crag. Its a very different style to what we're used to climbing, the rock is basalt similar to the rock at Vantage, but with more friction, and its less columnar. It was our first time there for all of us, so we started out on some easy stuff, the climbing is very ledgy with short cruxes. A lot of the routes are mixed trad and sport, which I was surprised I enjoyed, it did limit the routes available to other people in our group who didn't feel confident placing gear.
Laura warming up at Ozone

After a few warm ups, I got on a 12a The Humbling, it started out quite easy then has an obvious crux boulder problem at the top which puts you in a really cool horizontal position going over a roof. I was psyched to onsight it, it didn't even feel that hard. I also flashed a couple other 12a's as well, it would have been nice to onsight them, and I think I would have managed them no problem, but I was happy to share the onsights with Micah and Jimmy. My 12a onsight was my 3rd onsight of that grade this month all 3 at different crags with different rock types, it feels good to be confident onsighting at this grade, I don't think this is my limit either, I look forward to trying harder onsights. There was some cool looking steeper climbs to the right as well that I'd like to go back to. I don't think I'll have too much of a problem convincing people to go back there though, I think everyone gave the place the thumbs up.

Jimmy on the horizontal crux of The Hurting (12a)

28 days dry

Nick warming up on Iguanarama 10a at Amazonia (Exit 38)

I think I heard on the radio that today was the 28th day straight without rain in Olympia. With this kind of weather its hard to not get out climbing, plus Nick is back in town and more psyched than ever to get out climbing. So on Friday the three of us Nick, Laura and I made our way out to Exit 38, we were planning on climbing up at Bob's Area but we got sidetracked at Amazonia and The Actual Cave, so decided to save Bob's Area for another day. Amazonia looked as chossy as I remembered but the routes climb well. We warmed up on Iguanarama a really good 10a, and an 11a then headed up to The Actual Cave. I had never climbed there before, I had always just walked past it on my way to Bob's Area, but now having climbed there I can report back that The Actual Cave is actually AWESOME! The crag classic Giant is one of the best sport routes I've ever done. If you can climb 5.11 and can do 10 pulls-ups you have to get on Giant. It goes at 11c but it essentially climbs one big jug the whole way to the chains. It starts on the right hand side of the cave, you climb up easily to the roof of the cave then you start traversing along a jug rail on the lip of the cave through 5 clips of horizontal jug shuffling, its so much fun. I made it to the chains no problem, so decided to go for the extension Mr. Big 12a, its only one more bolt then the chains, but since there were hanging draws on all the bolts I didn't bring up any more draws and I needed something to clip the chains of Mr Big. So Nick and Laura threw some up to me while I was hanging on to a jug, after a few missed throws I eventually caught a couple and made it to the chains, Mr. Big was really good, not too hard just a little pumpy, but that may be due to the hanging off the jug trying to catch draws. Nick sent Mr. Big right after me as well, he was pleased because he had tried this route a couple of years ago and couldn't do it then.
A couple of photos of Me and Nick on the awesome roof climb Cyanide (12b), so much fun!

After that I decided to give Cyanide a shot since it had hanging draws on it as well. Cyanide is an unlikely looking climb. It climbs straight through the roof with 5 clips of 180 degree climbing, and it gets the fairly amenable grade of 12b, you don't get many climbs like this. On the onsight I found that the holds in the roof were better than I had imagined, I made a few hard moves to get to the third clip, where there was a good looking V-notch, I tried jamming my hand in pinkie first, but it didn't quite sit right, I pulled on it and was off, damn! I reached back up to same hold this time with my hand the other way so I was holding it as a ring lock and it was a jug! I pulled back on and managed the rest of the moves through the roof no problem, Oh man, I was so close to the onsight. I managed to fire it off second go using the right beta, its such a good climb, but it was hard to enjoy it knowing that I should have onsighted it. Nick also managed to send it second go, which he was really proud of since he struggled a lot more with the sequence than I did, probably due to his height. With those two big sends done we were feeling pretty pumped so finished off the day with an easy route at Club Paradiso (not recommended) before heading back down to the car.

Scott on a really nice thin 5.9 slab and crack at the Repo I (Little Si)

The next day I headed out climbing with Scott and Nick. It was good to climb with Scott again, I hadn't seen him since the Smith trip back in March. We headed back to North Bend, with the plan to do both the exits in a day. First stop was the Repo crags at 32 where Nick wanted to lead Mambo Jambo (the route I sketched out on last week) in the same style as I did, skipping the top bolts. I climbed up on top of the crag across it to get some cool photos and a video (which nick will hopefully put online soon) while Nick cruised it. He made it look like a 10b climb which it is instead of how I climbed it, making it look like a 12b.

Nick negotiating the jamming crux of Mambo Jambo (10b trad).

Nick on the top crux of Mambo Jambo, skipping the bolts in favor of gear placements.

Me on the steep wall of PC7 my broken project on WWI at Little Si

We then headed up the hill to WWI where I wanted to get back on PC7 the climb I had come really close on a few days earlier. I had been thinking about it a lot in those few days. I got through the first crux feeling super strong, it didn't feel hard at all, I got to the hard part above the third clip on the headwall, crimp, undercling, crimp with the right then reached up to the crimp that Micah had broken off, wait where is it? There was barely anything there, it was way worse than I thought it was going to be, it was barely possible to hang off it let alone pull way past it, NOOO! I hung there and tried to figure out some other sequence, but switching hands and moving right from the crimp below wasn't an option. I tried the broken crimp again, thinking there must be some other way to hold it, but there wasn't. I was pretty gutted, I was so close to getting this route done, but now its way out of my range. Its probably a 5.13 now, so I'll just have to move onto other projects and come back to this when I'm stronger. I can't really blame Micah, maybe he saved me from pulling off the crimp myself. I was kinda bummed out, and I apologise Nick and Scott if I ruined the vibe of the day. Nick managed to lighten the mood, with his impressive send of Bust the Rhythm 12c. This is a climb that Micah and I had done a couple of years ago, Nick had tried this quite a bit in the past but couldn't link the hard crux, on Saturday though he got it first go, and made it look easy. With Nick's project sent we headed back down the hill and to the Far Side at Exit 38, where Scott really wanted to try Endless Bliss, a monster 18-clip 10a slab. Scott and Nick had looked for this climb before but with no success, but I knew where it was so I took them there, where we all led it. Scott cruised it on lead, he has no problem on slabs like these. I also scoped out potential for a couple new routes on a hard technical section of rock to the right of Endless Bliss. They would be really hard and technical, but I think they would go, I would totally bolt them if I had a drill. We ended the day with the 5.9? to the left of endless Bliss, where Scott took a fall and hurt his shin, which was a bit of a bummer on an otherwise great day. I'm looking forward to climbing more with Scott and Nick this summer.

Nick finishing a great day off with a great climb, Endless Bliss 120ft of amazing slab climbing.

North Bend Weekend

We spent this past weekend up in Seattle it was a lot of fun and we made the most of our proximity to North Bend by getting out to Exit 38 on Friday and Exit 32 (Little Si) on Monday. On Friday we went back to Interstate Park on the Far Side since there was still a lot there we wanted to do. Micah met us out there and we got quite a few routes done, despite spending half the day getting lost trying to find Winter Block. We did check out some of the smaller crags like Off-Ramp and Squishy Bell, which were surprisingly fun. In total I think I led 9 new routes from 5.8 to 10c so it was a pretty good day.

Micah trying hard on the 5.8 at Squishy Bell

On Monday Laura and I met Micah again this time at Little Si. There were hoards of people on the trail to Little Si since it was Memorial Day, but luckily for us the crag wasn't too busy. I was surprised to see a Ryan a friend from Portland out there, he kept telling us how lucky we are to have such a great crag close by, so I think he liked it. I got in quite a few routes including some I haven't done in a while like Voodoo Guru (not as good as I remembered) and Megatherion and End of the World (better than I remembered). I got on Slug Lover a 12c I'd never tried before. There was a bail biner at the 4th (?) clip so I figured even if I couldn't complete it I wouldn't have to leave a biner. I got past the bail biner with ease since the start is surprisingly easy, only to get shut down on a very bouldery section a couple of bolts up. It didn't look too hard after that though, so I'll probably get back on it sometime soon and hopefully work out some kind of sequence for the crux. We left around 6ish, after getting in 7 long pitches of 11b and up, I was feeling pretty worked, but it can only improve my route fitness for later in the summer when I start work on some of my 5.12 and 13 projects here.

A ride to the Far Side

Yesterday we got out climbing at Exit 38. Laura and I had wanted to get out to the Far Side area at 38 for a while, so we put out the word to see if anyone wanted to join us. Our friend Sarah took us up on our offer so the three of us headed out there. We had wanted to check out the far side of the far side for a while. Usually we don't make it past Gritscone or the Gun Show. On one trip 2 years ago I took a sick day off of work in January in the hopes of getting some routes in, we managed one route 'Tunnel of Love' even though there was actual ice on the holds. We bailed before we got hypothermia and haven't been since.

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day in the 70s. Unfortunately for us there were a ton of other climbers at the same area. We still managed to get on a bunch of routes though and despite climbing in a three-some we got 24 pitches done in total between the three of us. It was the first time climbing outdoors in Washington for Sarah, and I think she really enjoyed herself, and Laura comfortably onsighted a couple of mid-1o's, so everyone had a good day. I think one of my favorite aspects of climbing is getting on routes I've never done before and figuring it out as I go, it was really great to be onsighting new stuff. My favorite route of the day was Ellie's Sweet Kiss a long juggy 10a. Here is a photo of laura on a 5.9 I think at Headlight point.

Real Rock

This weekend I got out on real rock for the first time since November! It was really nice to be pulling on cold stone instead of warm greasy plastic holds. My regular partners were out of town, Micah in Seattle and Laura in Portland, but I managed to recruit Jared, from the climbing team to come out with me. The weather had been dry all week, so I was feeling confident that we'd be able to find some dry rock. It was going to be pretty cold though, maybe low 40's if we got lucky. I places like WW1 would be too cold cause its at higher altitude and more sheltered crags like Nevermind would be seeping wet still. But I remember from making a trek out to the Far Side at exit 38 in January two years ago that Gritscone dries out quickly and stays pretty sheltered and mild. So Jared and I headed out there. I decided to lug out 2 mats as well as our rope and draws, figuring it might be fun to do some highballing! But it had been a while since I was last there, and I had forgotten 1) how far it is to walk especially with 2 mats precariously balanced on your back 2) how tall Gritscone actually is. In the end I did manage to use the mats so I guess it was worth it.

Jared and The Gritscone

Gritscone is basicly one big boulder about 30 feet high with a dozen of so routes on it, lying in a pine forest. The guide says its sandstone conglomerate, but I think its more like the type of rhinostone found at little si mixed with basalt. Either way it lends its self to great friction when its cold. And it was COLD! We were prepared for it though, with lots of layers and gloves to put on between routes. And the routes are all pretty short so your fingers don't get numb til you're done with the route. It was a beautiful day out, the sun was peeking through the trees, there was a fresh carpet of green pines on the ground, and the rock was pristine not a dab of chalk on it. Jared and I got started warming up with some easy routes on the right hand side of the block. We both led a 5.5, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, took a quick lunch break. Then Jared onsighted Booty Squirrel a tricky 10c, and went for the 11a. He didn't manage it first go, its quite beta intensive, but once he knew where the holds were he dispatched it second go with ease, commenting it felt easier than the 10c.

Next up was the main challenge, Rough Cut an 11d and the hardest route on the block. I had done it before so I let Jared go for the onsight, after about a 20 minute battle with the route (which is quite an achievement considering the route is only about 20 feet tall) he slumped into his harness confused about how to unlock the sequence. I showed him my beta, then led it one more time to make sure I had it down smooth before I pulled the rope and soloed it. I know I said previously I'm not really into soloing cause of the risks involved, but I didn't really see this as a solo, so much as a highball. Its probably the safest route to highball on the block cause its not slabby so it's a clean fall. The crux is at the top about 20 feet up but the mats were directly below and I had confidence in Jared's spotting. Besides, its probably only a V2, there was no way I was coming off especially with the friction so good. The one tricky part I didn't really factor in was once I got to the chains, there was another 10 feet of pine needle covered slab to get up, that was probably the sketchiest part. With my beta Jared was able to do all the moves and went for the lead, he got past the last clip only to fall going for the last hold! He tried again and got the hold, only to fall off trying to match it. It was just going to be one of those days for him. I did a couple more easy routes (5.7s I think) then we headed back to the car. Although Jared didn't get the route we both had a great day, Jared did his first 5.11 and has good project to come back to. I'm sure he'll get it next time. It was so nice to get out climbing in January, 11 routes in a day is great any time. I had almost started to forget how much fun outdoor routes could be. The weather is looking like it may stay dry this week so fingers crossed we might get out next weekend as well.

Me soloing Rough Cut. And yes I know I have a rip in my trousers.

Bobs Area

I made the most of my Labour Day off from work by checking out Bob's Area on Mt Washington at Exit 38. Micah had been once before, but Laura and I hadn't been so were keen to check it out. It's a grueling walk-in, 1 hour up a steep trail to the first crag. It would be a nice walk if you were into that kind of thing, but we're just lazy climbers so it was tough for us.

Laura onsighting Posthumous Joy and Elation 10c (6b)

Laura really climbed well, she onsighted a couple of tricky routes, a 10c (6b) and 10d (6b+) which equals her hardest onsight previously. I tried to onsight a couple harder routes, an 11d and a 12a (7a and 7a+) but I got spanked on both of them. I don't know if these routes were hard for the grade, or if my onsighting skills have gone down the pan. Probably a bit of both. It was nice trying some easier routes as well though, Micah and I did do a cool 11b (6c+). The rock quality up here is far superior to other areas at 38 like Nevermind and Amazonia, and I'm sure would be a lot more popular if they were as close to the parking lot as those areas. We finished off the day as the sun was setting with a couple of routes at Valley View West.

Laura hanging out on Stairway to Heavin' 10a (6a)

It was nice to have a laid back day as a contrast to the intense Little Si sessions we've been having lately. I would definitely return again soon if it wasn't for the walk-in.