Smith Again

Last weekend we got back down to Smith Rocks. I wasn’t planning on a trip, but a bunch of people from Olympia were heading down and a couple of days before I found out I didn’t have to come into work, so I had no excuses. Micah, Jared, Laura and I headed down after work on Friday and met up with Jeremy Erica and Jimmy who had already been there for a few days. We were glad to have friends down there already since Skull Hollows was packed, and its always nice to arrive a warm fire on a chilly night. On Saturday we started out at Morning Glory as per usual, I warmed up on Overboard to the top chains a fun 11c, that’s really just a whole lot of 10a climbing with a tricky V2 barndoor crux. Laura did a good job on Overboard, one-hanging it on toprope. I also got in a repeat of Nine Gallon Buckets to the top chains as well, it was great to get in some good milage on these long routes, 35 and 30 meter pitches. Micah did well with a couple of relaxed flashes of 11’s, and Jared proved he wasn't scared of Smith with an onsight Nine Gallon Buckets (10c) as his first lead at Smith!

Laura belaying me on the start of Overboard

Once we were warmed up we headed over to dihedrals and I hopped on Chain Reaction. I had gone over the beta in my head a lot since last trip a couple of weeks ago, and it paid off as I cruised past the crux and up to the jug on the lip, with just the one more move left to a jug before the chains I came off. I didn't leave enough room for my heel to rockover on the jug, and I ended up heelhooking on top of my hand bloodying up a finger and falling off in the process. I tried again but didn't manage to make it past the crux. I'm not too keen to get back on it but its one of those routes you just have to do. Congrats to Jimmy who sent it on his second go of the day (6 go's total?), it suited him down to a tee, it was his first 12c, but I predict there will be plenty more the way he was climbing. We finished off the day in Cocaine gully, where I did Chicken McNuggets which is a good route, but its no Walking While Intoxicated. I wanted to get on Vomit Launch, but people were on it, so I settled for Freebase the 12a to the left. It was a fun climb, but I got shut down on the reachy crux. We returned to the campsite where we got a good fire started and cracked open a few PBR's, minutes later a nasty storm blew in and it began pouring/hailing. We escaped to the Terrebonne Depot, where we enjoyed some good food, but it wasn't the same as hanging around the campfire. Some other friends were on their way down from Olympia, but they had to turn around cause of the weather. Luckily for us the rain stopped so we returned to the campsite, with hopes it would be dry in the morning.

Jared On Wedding Day

We woke up on Sunday to blue skies, and dry rock, we shouldn't have worried after all. A few of us were interested in checking out Northern Point the place we went at the end of the trip last week. As I said last time (below), I really like this place a lot. Maybe its just more my style of climbing, where the holds aren't just tiny pebbles, and you can actually hold slopers. I fired off a couple of 11a's Woman in the Meadow and Limbo which were great, and flashed the 12a that Jimmy did last time, it was really fun, I just wished the routes lasted longer. Jimmy and I tried a 12b there as well, but the deadpoint crux to a two finger pocket was a little too reachy for me. After that we decided to hit the road back to Olympia. All in all it was a fun weekend, good to get out climbing with lots of friends. I'm looking forward to the next trip already. I didn't take very many photos, but for more check out Jimmy and Micah's blog. Also I think I figured out how to upload my photos so you can click on them to get more detail. I'll do that from now on.

Jimmy about to pump out on Crack Babies

Me trying a 12b at Northern Point

Real Rock

This weekend I got out on real rock for the first time since November! It was really nice to be pulling on cold stone instead of warm greasy plastic holds. My regular partners were out of town, Micah in Seattle and Laura in Portland, but I managed to recruit Jared, from the climbing team to come out with me. The weather had been dry all week, so I was feeling confident that we'd be able to find some dry rock. It was going to be pretty cold though, maybe low 40's if we got lucky. I places like WW1 would be too cold cause its at higher altitude and more sheltered crags like Nevermind would be seeping wet still. But I remember from making a trek out to the Far Side at exit 38 in January two years ago that Gritscone dries out quickly and stays pretty sheltered and mild. So Jared and I headed out there. I decided to lug out 2 mats as well as our rope and draws, figuring it might be fun to do some highballing! But it had been a while since I was last there, and I had forgotten 1) how far it is to walk especially with 2 mats precariously balanced on your back 2) how tall Gritscone actually is. In the end I did manage to use the mats so I guess it was worth it.

Jared and The Gritscone

Gritscone is basicly one big boulder about 30 feet high with a dozen of so routes on it, lying in a pine forest. The guide says its sandstone conglomerate, but I think its more like the type of rhinostone found at little si mixed with basalt. Either way it lends its self to great friction when its cold. And it was COLD! We were prepared for it though, with lots of layers and gloves to put on between routes. And the routes are all pretty short so your fingers don't get numb til you're done with the route. It was a beautiful day out, the sun was peeking through the trees, there was a fresh carpet of green pines on the ground, and the rock was pristine not a dab of chalk on it. Jared and I got started warming up with some easy routes on the right hand side of the block. We both led a 5.5, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, took a quick lunch break. Then Jared onsighted Booty Squirrel a tricky 10c, and went for the 11a. He didn't manage it first go, its quite beta intensive, but once he knew where the holds were he dispatched it second go with ease, commenting it felt easier than the 10c.

Next up was the main challenge, Rough Cut an 11d and the hardest route on the block. I had done it before so I let Jared go for the onsight, after about a 20 minute battle with the route (which is quite an achievement considering the route is only about 20 feet tall) he slumped into his harness confused about how to unlock the sequence. I showed him my beta, then led it one more time to make sure I had it down smooth before I pulled the rope and soloed it. I know I said previously I'm not really into soloing cause of the risks involved, but I didn't really see this as a solo, so much as a highball. Its probably the safest route to highball on the block cause its not slabby so it's a clean fall. The crux is at the top about 20 feet up but the mats were directly below and I had confidence in Jared's spotting. Besides, its probably only a V2, there was no way I was coming off especially with the friction so good. The one tricky part I didn't really factor in was once I got to the chains, there was another 10 feet of pine needle covered slab to get up, that was probably the sketchiest part. With my beta Jared was able to do all the moves and went for the lead, he got past the last clip only to fall going for the last hold! He tried again and got the hold, only to fall off trying to match it. It was just going to be one of those days for him. I did a couple more easy routes (5.7s I think) then we headed back to the car. Although Jared didn't get the route we both had a great day, Jared did his first 5.11 and has good project to come back to. I'm sure he'll get it next time. It was so nice to get out climbing in January, 11 routes in a day is great any time. I had almost started to forget how much fun outdoor routes could be. The weather is looking like it may stay dry this week so fingers crossed we might get out next weekend as well.

Me soloing Rough Cut. And yes I know I have a rip in my trousers.