Dry Spell

The blog has gone a bit quiet recently. I'd like to say its because I've been too busy climbing to update, but the truth is that I've had a bit of a dry spell of late. I know its not really an excuse, but I have been absolutely loving teaching, and giving it my all pulling long hours has left me exhausted on the weekends. Its been just too hard to consider a weekend trip to Smith or Vantage. People have told me that its been one of the driest Falls in recent memory, but I just haven't had the time/energy to enjoy it. Hopefully I will be able to find a better balance this upcoming winter/spring.

I have managed one day out recently though. It was a crisp, clear Saturday in December, and Jeremy, Derik, David and myself headed up to test the friction at Gold Bar. I've always been skeptical of those who swear by bouldering in near-freezing conditions, but I've got to say, after this trip I might be a convert. I had been thinking about a certain couple of V6's on the Five Star Boulder ever since I was last there back in 07 (wow i feel like an old man saying things like that). My goal was to climb at least one of them. It was too cold to consider warming up, plus the boulder doesn't really have any warm ups, so I got straight on Green Padded Ass. The starting sloper rails felt like jugs with the cold crystals gripping into my dry skin. As I climbed higher the slopers got worse, my feet cut off, but there was no way my hands were losing contact with the rock, then I was topping it out on icy jugs. My first climb of the day, and I'd already met my goal. I almost sent Five Star Arete as well, but the finish jug was a little too damp to allow me to hold the swing. We then moved on to the river boulders at Index, my first time there and I was impressed. I got on the excellent Leggo my Eggo, and some river polished boulders that were HARD! It was fun taking turn and sessioning with the guys. I'm looking forward to getting back to these areas, especially since I now know that Green Padded Ass actually starts with a V0 sit-start, so I can't quite add it to my scorecard just yet. I'll just have to make sure I get back out there in equally cold conditions, otherwise I might have to try a bit harder.

Jeremy floating up the Five Star Arete, the rock is as good as it looks!

The hold just above his right hand was just damp enough to shut us down.

 

The picturesque, but deceptively hard River boulders. It is waay colder than Derik's and David's attire suggests.

The ever faithful Sasha! The river wasn't too cold for her.

Gold Bar Bouldering

On Sunday, I checked out the bouldering at Gold Bar about an hour northeast of Seattle. I went up with the Olympia crew, Me, Laura, Micah, Nick, Jimmy, and Whitey. It was my first visit to Gold Bar, and I'll definitely be back for more.

Whitey on a slopey V6 highball

First we went to the Five Star Boulder which is described in the guidebook as 'one of the best boulders in America, hands down' and having climbed on it I can say its probably the best boulder I've ever been on. Its got high clean independent lines on pristine granite on all sides. The only negatives are the landings on some of the highballs, even with 3 mats and good spotters it was quite scary.

Micah on the steep Five Star Arete V6

I sent a great V6 lowball called Sobriosity, along with Jimmy, Nick and Micah. And Jimmy who was on fire, sent the V7 Red Rover straight afterward. We also took some big falls off of the highballs. Fall of the day went to Jimmy who came off the top jug of the Five Star Arete (V6), missed the mats completely and landed right on Nick. Good spotting Nick! I'm glad it wasn't me, at least we got it on camera though.

Nick on Sobriosity V6

We also checked out the Camp Serene boulder a little bit down the road. This boulder is even taller but with better landings. We tried the two best lines on the boulder a V4 and a V6. But the topouts were wet and dirty so nobody tried to top out on this boulder which was a wise decision in my opinion considering the lack of a descent off the boulder.

Jimmy high on a V6 at the Camp Serene boulder

I was very impressed with the quality of bouldering at gold bar, we only checked out two boulders so there is plenty more to return for. Its cool to have quality bouldering close enough for a day trip, we don't have to drive all the way up to Squamish now. As Micah put it Gold Bar is a goldmine!