Dry Spell

The blog has gone a bit quiet recently. I'd like to say its because I've been too busy climbing to update, but the truth is that I've had a bit of a dry spell of late. I know its not really an excuse, but I have been absolutely loving teaching, and giving it my all pulling long hours has left me exhausted on the weekends. Its been just too hard to consider a weekend trip to Smith or Vantage. People have told me that its been one of the driest Falls in recent memory, but I just haven't had the time/energy to enjoy it. Hopefully I will be able to find a better balance this upcoming winter/spring.

I have managed one day out recently though. It was a crisp, clear Saturday in December, and Jeremy, Derik, David and myself headed up to test the friction at Gold Bar. I've always been skeptical of those who swear by bouldering in near-freezing conditions, but I've got to say, after this trip I might be a convert. I had been thinking about a certain couple of V6's on the Five Star Boulder ever since I was last there back in 07 (wow i feel like an old man saying things like that). My goal was to climb at least one of them. It was too cold to consider warming up, plus the boulder doesn't really have any warm ups, so I got straight on Green Padded Ass. The starting sloper rails felt like jugs with the cold crystals gripping into my dry skin. As I climbed higher the slopers got worse, my feet cut off, but there was no way my hands were losing contact with the rock, then I was topping it out on icy jugs. My first climb of the day, and I'd already met my goal. I almost sent Five Star Arete as well, but the finish jug was a little too damp to allow me to hold the swing. We then moved on to the river boulders at Index, my first time there and I was impressed. I got on the excellent Leggo my Eggo, and some river polished boulders that were HARD! It was fun taking turn and sessioning with the guys. I'm looking forward to getting back to these areas, especially since I now know that Green Padded Ass actually starts with a V0 sit-start, so I can't quite add it to my scorecard just yet. I'll just have to make sure I get back out there in equally cold conditions, otherwise I might have to try a bit harder.

Jeremy floating up the Five Star Arete, the rock is as good as it looks!

The hold just above his right hand was just damp enough to shut us down.

 

The picturesque, but deceptively hard River boulders. It is waay colder than Derik's and David's attire suggests.

The ever faithful Sasha! The river wasn't too cold for her.

Procrastinating at Leavenworth

I probably should have stayed home and done school work this weekend, but its hard to say no to a ride out to Leavenworth. We headed out Friday night and barely managed to get a spot at the free camping spot, it was packed. On Saturday we met up with Jeremy and Derik, and later Lisa as well which made for a good group sending psyche. Laura sent another V4, The Real Thing a long term project of her's that she made look pretty easy this time, and also a great tall V3 Arrested Development. The highlight of my trip was sending The Cattleguard Arete only my third V8 at Leavenworth to date. To be honest it didn't feel that hard, but then again it repelled the efforts of Jeremy, Derik and Lisa and they're no slouches. I think it just fit my style/size well. Saturday night we met up with Whitey at the campsite, and we played a game of whiffle (sp?) ball with some other climbers, we totally kicked ass. On Sunday my skin and energy was low, but I did manage to squeeze out a redpoint of The Physical a tough V4 that I had tried previously, it was nice to put that one to rest. Right now its time to hit the books, I don't think I'll be getting out again for a couple of weeks until school gets out for summer. Derik sticks the crux match but can't finish off the Cattleguard Arete V8

Whitey on Fedge a cool V2 highball slab

Micah reaches precariously near the top of Bad Moon Rising perhaps the best slab problem I've climbed