Squamish Bust

I was hoping to write a blog about how I climbed amazing long routes up The Cheif in Squamish, but my trip didn't quite work out that way. On my first day there, I met up with Micah, Jimmy, David and his brother who were all psyched on bouldering, so off we went into the forest. I've got a lot of respect for boulderers, some say they are the most ADD of climbers, but I think it requires a huge amount of patience and drive to try the same move over and over. I know my attention span is not up for it which is why I prefer routes, and rarely try the same route more than once or twice. I didn't get to boulder much, I flashed a V4, got worked on a V8, then literally on the next problem I tried tragedy struck.



David working his nemisis, Mantra (V8)

 Well maybe I'm being a bit dramatic. We were trying Superdyke (hardest V3 ever), I was on the crux rockover, only about 6ft above the pads when my foot popped and the next thing I knew I was rolling on the ground in agony. Luckily newly-certified wilderness first responder Micah was there to administer some much needed Rainiers, which really helped with the pain, as did the 20+ Ibuprofen's I took that evening (I was in a lot of pain). Thanks to David for giving me a piggyback out of the forest, and to Jimmy for exacting revenge on the problem for me.

The trip wasn't a complete bust though. When I was hanging around the campground I saw Kristen Kreuk an actress from the TV show Smallville heading up the tourist trail to the top of the Cheif. I had the hugest crush on when I was a teenager, in fact I think a poster of her might still be on my bedroom wall in Scotland. I'm certain it was her, she was looking good! I was too paralyzed to talk to her, I think I may have creeped her out with my staring though. For the rest of the trip I just chilled by Murrin Lake with my ankle in the water, read some books and daydreamed about meeting Kristen again.

The swelling has gone down a lot in my ankle now and I can walk again. I got it x-rayed today and they confirmed that it is just a bad sprain. I'm supposed to keep it in a boot for a couple of weeks, but hopefully the swelling will go down enough to fit it into a climbing shoe soon. Just no more bouldering for me, at least not anytime soon.

Slipping on a Banana Peel

I started writing about my accident on the route Banana Peel (8 pitch 5.7) at Squamish on my last blog, but it took up most of the post, so I thought I write about it separately, so it doesn't overshadow the rest of a great trip. I was climbing the route with Sarah, and we were making good progress, Sarah was doing great considering her lack of experience on multi-pitch routes. We were about half way up the route and I was linking the 5th and 6th pitches together. I figured I could just about manage to link them with with a 60m rope, but I didn't quite make it. At the top of the 6th pitch after some 5.7 climbing I placed a bomber hex under a flake then ran it out up a blank slab. I was almost within reaching distance of the big tree on a ledge to belay from but I ran out of rope so I put a sling around a tree root and decided to belay from there until I could climb up a few feet higher to the more secure tree. Sarah took me off belay and started climbing up. When I had a few feet slack I pulled up on the tree root (which was about the same thickness as a steering wheel, so pretty chunky) that I was slinged into to get up to the tree. One second I was pulling on this seemingly solid root, the next I was flying backwards down the slab, the root had broken off in my hand! I wasn't clipped into anything now, and I wasn't on belay but I was still tied in. I didn't have much time to react, my instinct was just to reach my hands out and try to catch on to something, and luckily the angle of the slab wasn't too steep and I was able to create enough friction to stop myself on the slab, I fell about 20 feet total. If I hadn't been able to stop myself, I would have kept on falling past my last piece of gear, another 10ft below when the rope would go tight on Sarah, for a total fall of something like 60ft. I probably would have been fine, but it would have been very scary. As it happened when I came to a stop my right arm was scraped up and I had a nasty flapper on the tip of my thumb that was bleeding a lot, but other than that I was fine. I regained my composure, assessed my injuries and figured the best plan was to try to get back up to the tree ledge and continue up the route, there were just two 5.4 pitches left. I belayed Sarah up from the big tree, and when she got up to the ledge, she could see all the blood on my hand and my spooked expression. I didn't explain to her exactly what happened then, I figured it would be better to explain when we got off the route. I think she could tell that I just wanted to get up and off the climb at that point. The next two pitches were fine, I was able to climb them without really having to use my thumb. When we got to the top, Nick and Erica were up there, having just finished their adjacent route Diedre, so I filled them and Sarah in on what happened.

My thumb, the next day after I cleaned it up.

I learned a few things from this accident. 1) Don't be so complacent on easy routes, most accidents happen not from the difficulty of the climbing but from other factors. 2) Place lots of runners even on easy terrain. Luckily I was climbing with Sarah and I placed lots of runners to protect the second. When I did the same route the day before with Nick I placed a lot less gear, including the bomber hex I would have fallen on. If I had fallen all the way with the gear I had in the day previous it could have been a 100ft fall. 3) Don't trust tree roots so much, especially after a record breaking dry summer. 4) Don't try to link pitches to save time, when your not sure if your rope will make it.

I also think I made a few good decisions on this accident that are worth mentioning as well. When I fell I instinctively tried to reach out and grab anything to stop the fall, that was a good reaction that saved me taking a much bigger fall. After the fall I was able to maintain my composure and think through what to do next rationally, I think a common reaction after taking that fall would be to panic which wouldn't have helped in this situation. And my decision to continue up the route was the right choice, rappelling off from this high on a route with two other groups below and with another climber inexperienced in rappelling is just asking for another accident to happen.


In retrospect I'm almost glad I had this accident, I have climbed for a long time without any serious mishaps, it reminds me that I'm not invincible. I feel liked I learned a lot more from falling on this route, than I would have had I climbed it without incident. Here is an quote I heard recently that seems appropriate: 'Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment' - Fred Brooks.

1 pair of shorts, 2 t-shirts and 5 days in Squamish

Space was tight as Nick, Jimmy and I packed into Erica's car on Friday heading up to Squamish BC, so I kept my gear to a minimum. Somehow we managed to fit everything in the car, piled on top of peoples laps and under their feet. I got the best seat in the car as the driver so I didn't have to worry about being crushed under all our gear. We got pulled over at the border and questioned, but luckily they didn't search the car, that would have been a huge hassle to have to repack. Eventually we made it up to Squamish around midnight where we met Laura, Melody and Sarah who left a little before us. Saturday started out pretty mellow with a tour of the boulders in the forest, I was happy to show people around some of the classics and repeat some easier stuff. Then in the afternoon we cooled off in Murren Lake and did a few routes as well, the highlight was an intense technical 11c granite sport climb called James and the Giant Reach. Nick onsighted it and I was happy to use his beta on the flash, it was hard.

Sunday morning we headed out to the Smoke Bluffs, to do some easy trad, I led Burgers and Fries a classic 5.7 that shouldn't be underestimated given its run out slab finish. Then in the afternoon, we went back to Murren Park and did some trad routes up on the Sugarloaf, which is a nice but busy little crag. I managed to onsight a 10c trad route, but my gear placements were not the best, so I was a little disappointed. At that point it was getting late, and Laura and Melody had to drive back down to Olympia, I was glad that I still had a lot more time up here, I felt like I was just getting warmed up.

Monday morning Nick and I got up early to climb a route called the Ultimate Everything Link Up. Its the longest route on the Chief since it starts right at the bottom of the Apron and tops out at the Second Peak. We started out on a 3 pitch 5.9 route at the base of the Apron called The Bottom Line, then linked up into the 8 pitch Banana Peel which I had done before. We were making pretty good time despite Nick going off route a couple of times and were up on Broadway Ledge about 2 and a half hours in. We had strung a couple of pitches together and simul-climbed a little bit to cut down on time. From here we did Broomstick Crack a really cool 2 pitch 5.7 route to get to the base of the upper headwall. The pitches were not too difficult, they were nearly all trad, with a few bolts to protect the blank parts.

Nick and I on Broadway Ledge 11 pitches down 12 to go

Me starting up Broomstick Crack about half way up

The upper headwall was a lot of fun the climbing got a little steeper, but still relatively easy. We made it up to the very last pitch clean with no real problems and were feeling good. The book describes the last pitch as the crux pitch, going free at 11c, or it can be aided at 5.9 A0. It was Nick's turn to lead so he gave it a shot, he ditched the gear and just took a few draws since the guide showed it had a few bolts, but in retrospect he should have brought some cams to protect the runouts between the bolts, nevertheless he made it up to the crux, where the wall got steep and the holds got small, he worked his way up on tiny crimps, then his feet popped, he tried to hold on tight but he came off and fell on the bolt. He was obviously a little disappointed, but 11c is hard to onsight especially after 7 hours straight of climbing. He came down, we pulled the rope, and I tied into the sharp end. The plan was that I would try to free it, but if I couldn't I would just pull on the bolts and aid past the hard part. I made my way up the wall, placing gear between the bolts, I got up to where Nick was and felt the crimps Nick was grappling with, they weren't good, but about a foot to the right there was a decent crimpy layback, I pulled on that, got my feet up high on the crimps, rocked over on my foot, and reached up high left hoping there would be something there. There were a few slopey holds above that were just good enough then a good jug rail which I followed up to the summit and chain anchors. Nick followed up, able to toprope it clean using my beta, he said it was still pretty hard though. We highfived and untied, it felt good to bask in the sun at the summit, and the tourists who had hiked up there seemed very impressed when they saw us come up 'the hard way'. Our total time up the route was 7 hours 16 minutes, but I'm sure I could cut at least an hour off that if I were to do it again now that I know where I'm going.

Nick at a belay anchor only a couple of pitches from the top

The view at the summit of the Chief, from Second Peak looking towards the busy First Peak

We were feeling pretty worn out after that, but we got back to the campsite about 3.30 in the afternoon so had plenty of time to get out climbing again. We decided to check out The Sanctuary a small area described in the guide book as having Cheakamus-like sport climbing close to the Smoke Bluffs. When we got there I was pleasantly impressed, it was very similar rock to the exit 32/38 rock of North Bend, with about 15 routes between 10b and 12d. I did a couple of the 10b's to warm up again, then fired into the onsight of Morpheus a 12a. It was tough, and I had to work hard, but I managed to onsight it, my first 12a onsight in Squamish after trying 4 routes here of that grade. It was a great route, a little steep, fingery, technical and thin. I was pretty worn out after that route so we went back to the campsite for dinner then The Howe Sound Brew Pub for a pint, where we met Tony. I had arranged with Tony to meet up with him up here on Monday, so was glad to see him when he sauntered in to the Pub. I climbed a lot with Tony back in 2007, but since then we haven't gotten back climbing together again, so it was good to catch up with him in the pub where we all made plans to head up the Apron the next day.

Tony leading the last pitch of Banana Peel

Tuesday morning we got an earlyish start and Nick and Erica headed up Diedre, while me and Sarah paired up and Jimmy and Tony paired up to go up the 8 pitch 5.7 Banana Peel. Sarah had very little experience climbing multipitch so I was a little concerned for her, but I needn't have been, she did great. In fact it was me that I should have watched out for. I've written about the accident I had on this route as a different blog post, cause I have a lot to say about it and I didn't want it to detract from this post. Tony and Jimmy did great on this route, they shared leads on it and made it up the route soon after us. It was a big route for both of them, since neither of them had a ton of multipitch trad experience. After our experience on the Apron I think we all wanted to get on something a little less intimidating, so we headed up the road to do some single pitch sport climbing up at Cheakamus Canyon. I couldn't really pull hard with my injured thumb, but I still managed a hard 11a, and some easier stuff, and was a good cheerleader when Nick and Jimmy got on some hard stuff. Nick tried The Fleeing Heifer the classic 12c at Chek, he got to the chains with a lot of hangs, but managed to figure out the sequence. Jimmy was watching Nick on it and fancied a flash attempt since he was feeling pretty good. He hopped on and with me and Nick shouting beta to him he made it past the crux and continued up for the flash! It was a pleasure to watch Jimmy on this, he climbed it really well and it was great to see him climbing at his potential. It was by far his hardest flash to date, before this his hardest was just 12a. Once we were all done there we headed back to the campsite to finish off the last of our boxed wine.

Jimmy flashing The Fleeing Heifer 12c!

Wednesday was our last day in Squamish, and Tony and I wanted to make the most of it by doing some classic trad climbing at the Smoke Bluffs. We started out on Cat Crack a great 5.7 that Tony got an unfortunate bruise under his eye after pulling on a big nut to test it and it flying out and hitting him in the face. I managed to onsight a tough 10b crack climb called S-M's Delight, it was challenging for me cause it was a long sustained route that had all kinds of crack climbing from thin fingers to wide hand crack, it was a good confidence booster. We did a couple other nice routes after that, but it was soon time to go back to the camp to meet up with the rest of the guys to pack up. I felt that Tony and I could have just kept on climbing at the Smoke Bluffs all day. We managed to pack everything back into the two cars and headed on back down the road. Part of me wanted to get back home to shower, tend to my wounds, and recover from some food poisoning that was creeping up on me fast from eating some raw sausages. But there was another part of me that wanted to tell the rest of the crew to go on without me, I could fend for myself up here. I'm glad I home now and recovered, but I can't wait to get back up on the granite at Squamish.

Tony on the left leading Classic Crack 5.8 on our last day in Squamish

Squamish Heat

On Monday morning, Laura and I set off up the road for the first Squamish trip of the summer, Nick and Andrew, a new friend from the gym joined us. We made good time arriving up at Squamish in the early afternoon, and were surprised to find plenty of empty campsites, we later found out this was due to the new camping fee policy there, the site which cost us $9 a night last summer now costs $20 a night for the 4 of us, no wonder there are less dirtbag climbers spending their whole summer there now. We headed straight out to the boulders where we got on some easy classics, it was Andrews first time in Squamish and first time bouldering outside so we showed him some good ones to get started on, he managed to redpoint a V2, which is no easy feat in Squamish. I got on Airtight Garage a V7 that I have been trying for the last 3 summers, I really hate this problem but for some reason I feel the need to keep throwing myself at it because I always feel soo close on it. This time I got even closer than ever, pulling up on the good crimp going for the top, but true to form it kept spitting me off. After about an hour trying this problem I decided to cut my losses and move on. I think its time to forget about this problem, I always loose so much skin trying it, and its just not a fun boulder problem so I’ve decided never to try it again, if anyone ever sees me trying it they have my permission to pull me off it. We wrapped up our little bouldering session soon afterwards and decided to head out to the Smoke Bluffs for some trad action. This was much more fun and relaxed, I led five fun trad routes from 5.7 to 10b, my favorite by far was a route called Neat and Cool, a 10a trad route that starts out steep with some awesome face holds and great gear, and doesn’t really have any hard moves, but will get you pumped if you’re the type of climber that gets pumped, but as I explained to Andrew, I’m not that type of climber. It is probably one of my all time favorite routes. If you can lead 10a trad then you have got to get on this route. We wrapped up the climbing soon after that, as it was starting to get dark so we returned to the campsite, with a good feeling of accomplishment for the first day.

Andrew trying to stick the crux throw of Option B (V2)

Nick cruising a 5.8 at the Smoke Bluffs

Andrew approaching the crux of Pixie Corner his first 5.8 trad lead

The next day we woke up, had some breakfast then headed up the road to Cheakamus Canyon, to do some sport climbing. When we got out of the car we were blown away by the heat, the radio said it was going to reach 30 degrees Celsius, I forgot what that translated to exactly (just checked its 86 degrees F) but I knew it was pretty warm. We struggled in the heat but we managed to get up a few routes by sticking to the shade. The Well of Souls was cooler so we did a few routes there, Nick and I tried a really cool looking 12c called Timber Queen, it climbed really well til one stopper move near the top but we weren’t able to link this move. I really wanted to go for the onsight of a couple of 12a’s there. Of the 6 12a’s I’ve tried this year I’ve onsighted or flashed them all so thought I had a pretty good chance, but a combination of hot temperatures and cryptic sequences shut me down, so I had to settle for second go send of the two that I tried. I gave Nick running beta on one of them and he managed the flash, the 12a’s there are no walk in the park. Andrew and Laura managed a couple of impressive sends as well despite the heat, Andrew managed to flash a tough 10d at the Well of Souls and Laura managed an onsight of a 10d at foundation wall, nice job! On our way back from Cheakamus we stopped off at Wigan Pier a British style fish and chips restaurant, it was soo good, its run by a British expat so it tastes just like fish and chips from back home, I got cod and chips, a steak and kidney pie and an irn-bru, it was well worth it. After dinner we weren't feeling to motivated to climb but we had an hour or so of daylight so bouldered a bit in the forest before calling it a day.

Me on the amazing route Neat & Cool, 5.10 trad at the Smoke Bluffs

Me climbing in the sun

On Wednesday Andrew and Nick had planned to get up at 6am to beat the crowds to Diedre a super popular 5.8 multipitch up the Apron. Laura and I had already done that climb so planned on going up Banana Peel an 8-pitch 5.7 next to it which isn't quite as popular so we figured we'd get up at a much more reasonable 7.30. We got up had a bite to eat and headed up towards the climb. On our approach we saw them only a pitch up the wrong climb! We shouted up at them that they were on the wrong climb. They rapped down and waited in line for Diedre, but by this point there were a few parties ahead of them so they had to wait for quite a while. Our climb was a lot of fun, it only had a couple of sections of 5.7 climbing, the rest was running it out on easy slabs. Laura and I climbed really efficiently together, and Laura even led the last pitch to the top. We got back to the campsite around 11 had lunch, packed up the campsite, listened to the radio took a nap and waited for Nick and Andrew to get back. We waited and waited and eventually at 2.30 they made it back to the campsite, they were ok, it just took them a long time being stuck behind a few groups. By the time they had lunch and packed it was getting close to our leaving time, and it was way too hot to get on anything, so we drove down to Murin Park to go for a swim in the lake. It was a great way to finish off the trip. There was a lot of stuff I wanted to do that I just didn't have time for, but I will be back soon!

Laura takes a seat to place gear on the last pitch of Banana Peel on the Apron

Me and Nick cool off in Murrin Lake before we head home

Back to the States (well Canada actually)

Just a couple of days after arriving back in the States from our Europe Trip Laura and I were back on the road again, this time up to Canada. Our good friends Micah and Nick were already up in Squamish enjoying the bouldering, so we decided to go up and meet them. It was to be our last time climbing with Nick for a while since he is moving to the east coast to start a nursing program in Washington DC. The night before we headed off I got a call from Nick in Squamish. They had a pretty bad day, they were working on the Squamish classic Sesame Street (V9) when Nick took an awkward fall and smashed his leg against a rock. They spent most of the day at the hospital where he had to get stitches and because Nick is uninsured it cost him $600 out of his own pocket, Ouch! But that didn't deter him, he was back bouldering later that evening.

Nick on Gull Skull

It was great to see them again, the last time we saw them was in March, but it was like we had never left, except for the fact they had gotten a lot stronger. Nick improved from climbing V6 earlier this year to now having climbed his first V9's over the summer, not to mention his great improvement on routes. And Micah has now climbed 2 V10's as well as numerous V8s and 9s! This was the same guy who at the start of summer last year didn't think bouldering was for him. And only just did his first V6 around this time last year at Squamish! It was clear to see how strong they had become when we met them at Worm World Cave (V9), Nick was really close on it, and Micah was showing him the beta having already done it.

It was great to climb with them again even though I couldn't quite keep up with them on the hardest stuff. We managed to flash Atlas a cool V4 that I had never seen before, it was a really good find, considering I thought I had done pretty much everything worth doing at this grade in Squamish. Laura added it to her growing list of frustrating Squamish V4s. I also showed Micah my beta on Corrupted a crimpy V7 I had done last summer, and he quickly sent it on his second go of the day.

Micah going for the repeat of Tatonka V8

A boulder problem I had thought about a lot since I was last here last September, was Immunity Challenge (V7), a great 12 move crimpy endurance problem. So I convinced the guys to make the trek to the other side of the forest to try it. I had worked on it one day last summer but couldn't link it together , I did however write down move by move beta on a post-it note and stuck it in the guide for the next time I'd try it. It paid off when I sent it second go of the day, I was really proud of this climb especially since Micah and Nick thought it was pretty tough. After this we tried The Fuzz another V7 that manages to be a Squamish classic despite it not being in the guide. Micah sent it quickly with ease while Nick and I just watched on in awe.

The following day we awoke to rain which was a big bummer. We hung out at a breakfast joint until it looked like it would be alright. The forest was soaked but the apron boulders dry very quickly so we headed straight for those. There have been major roadworks all along the Vancouver to Whistler road as they expand it all in preparation for the 2010 Winter Olympics, and it has finally caught up with Squamish. One of the best V4's here Shots Fired is slated to be blown up to make way for the road expansion and currently it is right on the verge of the road and literally has gravel piled up to the side of it. Micah and I repeated it and Nick did it for the first time, he may have gotten its last ascent. The road works also unearthed a few other boulders nearby so we played around on them a bit as well which was fun. What looked like a write-off day actually turned out to be quite productive, as we managed to get on quite a few things that day, we capped off the day by catching a movie at the Garibaldi cinema: Pineapple Express, I'd highly recommend it.

Nick showing us how its done

Sunday was more of the same in terms of the weather, the boulders were still wet in the forest so we made do with what was dry at the apron boulders. We repeated The Cutting Edge (V4), and Micah finished off some old business with a send of Gull Skull (V6). Micah put together some footage, its all new except for the clip of me on Holm Boy from last summer. Although we didn't manage any huge numbers, it was a great to be climbing with Nick and Micah again. I'm sure I speak on behalf of everyone in Oly when I say you'll be missed Nick!

SDS Holmboy Video

Here's a video Micah took of me repeating the Sit Down Start to Holmboy a V6 at Squamish in September. It might take a while to load.

Squamish!

Laura and I had spent a lot of time up at Squamish earlier this summer, but we hadn't been back up in 6 weeks or so, probably because last time we were up there our car broke down, not a fun experience. But with breakdown coverage bought the day before we were prepared this time. I got off work early so Tony, Laura and I headed on up the road. We got in about 6.30 enough time for an evening bouldering session so we dumped our stuff at the campsite and headed for the forest. There were still some familiar faces kicking around from earlier in the summer which was good to see, the last of the Scottish crew were still around for their last week.
We were greeted at Animal Magnetism boulder by Micah and Liz who had headed up earlier in the day. Micah was buzzing from having sent Lounge Act (V6) second go this trip, and was now working the sit-down start to Holmboy the best V6 in the forest. I got my shoes on and made a cool repeat showing Micah my beta. Micah proceeded to ignore my beta and made it through the crux doing it his own way, he got to the good hold at the top of the rail, but then was too pumped to reach the jug and came off, heartbreaker! We decided to save some skin for the rest of the weekend so went back to the campsite for some campground burritos Mmm tasty.

A view of the Stawamus Chief from the campsite

The next morning we headed over to the Smoke Bluffs for some trad action. My last time in Squamish I cruised The Exasperator a classic 10c finger crack on the base of the Grand Wall, so was feeling confident. I decided to try some easier classics like Penny Lane (5.9) and Octopus Garden (5.8) this time, which was fun, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't have my moments on them. I definitely need to work on my jamming skills, I think I plugged in something like 5 pieces of gear in a 15ft section on Octopus Garden. All this sport climbing has turned me into a wuss! I ended the morning on a high note though by cruising a 10b finger crack, which I felt a lot more confident on, I reckon it would get E2 5c back in the UK.

Dom bearing down on Its About Time V6

After lunch Micah and I hit the boulders while Tony and Laura headed back for more trad action, I think they managed to climb the whole day on only 5 star (out of 5) routes! Micah and I started out with a quick send of the hard V4 Timeless, then over to It's About Time one of the best boulder problems in the forest in my opinion. I had done the V5 start of It's About Time before, but was still working on the V6 hanging start. Micah dispatched the V5 second go, then we worked on the V6 start. Micah did the V6 start pretty quickly afterward with a lot of me shouting in his ear to stay on. And he returned the favor shortly afterwards, shouting encouragement at me when I sent it. We were feeling good at sending a V4, V5 then V6, so decided to up it a notch and try some V7's. First was Anubis a steep 2 move power problem, we could do the first move, but gave up on the second move slapping to a cheese grater sloper, we decided that it wasn't worth the pain. We moved on to a slightly less painful V7 Airtight Garage. This problem had been my nemesis this summer, I had gotten close so many times. I don't even like the problem, its just that I'm so close I feel obliged to finish it off. But after an hour or repetedly falling off we decided it wasn't very fun and moved on with much less skin than we started with. Eating fries that night was a bit painful on our tender tips.

Micah flashing the classic lowball The Mantis (V4)

The next morning micah and I bouldered again while Laura and Tony tradded it up. Micah was low on power and couldn't finish of Holmboy, I guess it'll have to wait til next time. WE then got on a V7 I had been recommended called Immunity Challege in the Survivor area. It is such a sweet line, it take a line of micro basalt crimps on a steep boulder. Its long for a squamish problem as well, 12 hard moves with little rest. At first I didn't think I could hang the crimps, but I fought through the pain and within an hour I had all the moves sussed I just had to link them all. We were low on time and I knew my skin could only take one more good attempt, I screamed my way through the opening crimps with micah shouting at me to stay on. I latched the lip of the boulder, made the crux throw up to the good crimp, but just couldn't hold on for the cross-through to the jug, just one move off! I knew that was it for me I guess it'll have to wait til next trip, maybe next year. But at least I have something to look forward to eh? Definitely an inspiring line.

Dom sticks the sloper on Airtight Garage V7

We got some lunch then we all headed out for a group boulder session, just doing some easier stuff V2's and 3's, and Micah got a couple more V5's to top off the weekend. We made the obligatory stop off at the Wigan Pier for the best Fish and Chips this side of the Atlantic before we headed home. We were back in Olympia by 2am. All in all a good weekend!

Also Congrats to Nick who finally sent his long term project Chain Reation 12c (7b+) this weekend down at Smith!