Thursday, July 2, 2009

A weekend of onsights

After a tough week back in class I really wanted to get outside climbing so Laura and I decided to go out just the two of us to Bob's Area at Exit 38. This time the hour walk in didn't seem so brutal, maybe we're getting fitter or maybe we were just better prepared for it this time. Once we got up we started out on the Peannacle, a short outcropping with lots of easier fun climbs. We did a few, my favorites being Peanut Brittle (5.8) and Gallivant (10a). Then we headed up the hill a bit to Alpina, I had never climbed on this crag either, its a really good little crag with 4 routes on it, a 10b,11a,11b, and 11d. Laura onsighted the 10b (nice job!) which I think makes that her 5th 10b onsight in a little over a month, not bad. I onsighted the rest of the routes at Alpina, they were all great, deceptively technical and harder than they look from the ground. I finished off the day with another 11a at Slumbersome Ridge, I think I led 10 new routes in total, and there's plenty more at Bob's Area to go back to. It was really great to get out just the two of us, sometimes 2 people is just perfect for getting a lot of routes done and enjoying the peacefulness at the crag.
The view from Bob's Area

Saturday we took a rest day, and I finished off some homework, we planned an early start the next day to go climbing. But that didn't stop us from going out Saturday night (see photo below).
Laura showing off her karaoke skills

Sunday, we didn't get out quite as early as planned, but the days are long so there was no rush. Micah drove me Laura, Jimmy and Chaz, south down 1-5 to check out a new crag, Ozone. Ozone is in the Columbia River Gorge near Portland on the Washington side, it has just been developed in the last few years, and is a really fun crag. Its a very different style to what we're used to climbing, the rock is basalt similar to the rock at Vantage, but with more friction, and its less columnar. It was our first time there for all of us, so we started out on some easy stuff, the climbing is very ledgy with short cruxes. A lot of the routes are mixed trad and sport, which I was surprised I enjoyed, it did limit the routes available to other people in our group who didn't feel confident placing gear.
Laura warming up at Ozone

After a few warm ups, I got on a 12a The Humbling, it started out quite easy then has an obvious crux boulder problem at the top which puts you in a really cool horizontal position going over a roof. I was psyched to onsight it, it didn't even feel that hard. I also flashed a couple other 12a's as well, it would have been nice to onsight them, and I think I would have managed them no problem, but I was happy to share the onsights with Micah and Jimmy. My 12a onsight was my 3rd onsight of that grade this month all 3 at different crags with different rock types, it feels good to be confident onsighting at this grade, I don't think this is my limit either, I look forward to trying harder onsights. There was some cool looking steeper climbs to the right as well that I'd like to go back to. I don't think I'll have too much of a problem convincing people to go back there though, I think everyone gave the place the thumbs up.

Jimmy on the horizontal crux of The Hurting (12a)

2 comments:

Greg Dasso said...

All I have to say is that next time call me for karaoke night!

Though you'll never get me to sing, it looks fun!

NM said...

Nice blog post Dom! I agree, it feels good to feel competant @ the grade 7's on varying rock types. Word. See you soon man...Happy 4th of July to Laura and you!