Out with the guys

Yesterday I had an awesome day with the guys: Nick and Micah. All we needed was Jimmy to complete the awesome foursome, but he was representing Olympia at the sport climbing nationals in Salt Lake City. For a Tuesday World Wall I was surprisingly busy, there were about a dozen other people hanging around (literally). I warmed up with a fun route I hadn't done before, Sinistral Purpose (11a trad). It starts up a bolted 10d, then you go left for a couple of bolts where you get to a crack and its plug and chug for about 40ft. The route climbs like a sport route with trad gear, so I had no problems on it, it was really cruiser, similar climbing to Reptiles, but steeper. It was a great route to do, and I was pleased about how easy it felt, but my buzz was killed on the way down when I found that one of my cams was way overcammed and stuck deep in the crack, I tried for a while, but there was no getting it back. Nick flashed the route as well and tried to get my cam out, but it wasn't happening. It takes my cam count from a measly 5 to an even worse 4, that cam and I had shared some good times together, but I guess its time we move on. Its up for grabs if anyone thinks a lot of their gear salvaging skills.

The main objective of the day was to get on Californicator, but it was busy so Micah suggested we try Slug Lover a 12c I had tried briefly a couple of weeks ago. I put up the draws and hung at the crux again, it was a really hard one to read, but after trying a few different things I unlocked a sequence that involved turning your body into the corner and reaching high for a good slot. The rest of the route was fine, really fun 5.10+ climbing on quality rock. I got lowered back to the crux, and got it first go again on toprope, which was good for my confidence. I gave Micah and Nick the beta and they went for the flash, but the crux is very body position specific so they had to figure out the move for themselves. I should have sent it on my next go, but my left hand dry-fired off the pinch at the crux. Micah stepped up and SENT on his 2nd go though! It was impressive to watch, and it was good to see Micah finish off a project so quickly. It is by far the fastest he has sent a 12c. Nick and I decided to save it for another day, since Californicator was open now.

Micah just before the crux of Slug Lover

Back on Californicator, Nick went first, but it just wasn't clicking for him, he fell low and hung a lot before getting lowered down. I went next and in my newly resoled Anasazi's it felt a lot more secure, I climbed past my highpoint, skipped the 7th bolt for rope drag, then came off on the typewriter hold. I hung for a little bit then got back on and got to the chains with just the one hang. I was really pleased to make so much progress, I now know its very doable. Micah got back on it and got the beta down and with a few hangs made it to the chains for the first time. Then it was back to Nick to redeem himself, he looked a lot more solid on it this time, he cruised the opening sequence and kept on going higher and higher, we were all cheering him on from the ground, he kept on going and made it all the way to the chains! Nice Nick! This is by far the hardest thing I've ever seen Nick climb, this thing is HARD 12d. It was way impressive, and I think me and Micah feel a lot more pressure to get it as well now. We both gave it another go and refined our beta.

I finished the day with a warm down of Megatherion to the top chains, which is awesome. Then all of a sudden it was 9.30pm already. We walked back in the dark, and stopped off in North Bend to celebrate with some dipped cones. It was a great day out, big sends for Micah and Nick, I don't think I could have been happier if I had sent them myself... well maybe ;)