King Lines and Committed Movie Reviews

I rushed home from work yesterday to find my package from bouldering.com had arrived, the 2 climbing dvd's I ordered. So I called up some friends and invited them over for the Olympia premiere of the most eagerly awaited climbing movies of the year, King Lines and Committed.

We decided to watch King Lines first. What a movie! Straight off the bat, our jaws were on the floor. Amazing cinematography, stunning routes and Chris Sharma! What more could you ask for? It was obvious that this movie had a large budget, from the private planes with bids eye views of the crags, and flashy camera effects. But I didn't realize how much of a sharmafest this movie was going to be. It is all about Sharma, it even has him doing trad! They show a few other climbers but only breif clips when they're climbing with him. Not that I mind that being a big Sharma fan. Going into the movie i was a bit worried it would just be another dosage movie cut to fit together, but that wasn't the case at all. The theme of Sharma searching out 'King Lines' worked well and it was really smooth. But it does lead to some awkward moments. There's one part where it looks like the filmmakers told Sharma to stand up on the podium next to the winners of bouldering comp in Spain even though it looks like he didn't win. And when Pringle tops out on the FA of a Butermilk highball ahead of Sharma, you almost feel like he didn't read the script to the movie. The only 'fast forward' part might be the Venezuela section which dragged on a bit. It seemed like they put so much money and effort into going there then when it rained they felt they had to use the footage anyway. One part of the movie I thought didn't really fit was the blatent advertising for Evolve half way through when they try to show Chris helping design new climbing shoes, but it comes accross as fake, and just put in there to please the sponsors. But apart from that the rest of the movie was first class. The highlight of the movie for me had to be the footage of Sharma working his project at Mt Clark, its really mindblowing. When the credits came we burst out in aplause. A sign of a good climbing movie is if you can watch it over and over again and still get psyched, i've already watched it twice and I've barely had it for 24 hours. Its definately up there with West Coast Gimps as a contender for my favourite climbing movie.


I almost felt it a bit unfair to watch Committed straight afterwards. But we were psyched so we put it on. The contrast between the two movies was obvious. The energy level went down when we watched Committed and there was a lot of conversation going on while we watched it which shows it wasn't really engrossing. When compared with King Lines it seems in a totally different league, it didn't have the polish of a high budget movie, but even simple things like not having the whole climb in shot took away from my enjoyment of the movie. I think the biggest detraction though was the poor commentary. In King Lines Sharma did narration where necessary but it was kept to a minimum, whereas in Committed the narration almost gave it a documentary-like feel, and at times it felt like they were dumbing it down explaining some climbing terms. It also became a bit of a distraction at times, in King Lines they would just show Sharma screaming his way up a climb with good music in the background whereas in Committed you've got a rather dull commentary that makes it hard to get psyched even though the footage was gripping. There was some great footage captured for the movie. James Pearson on The Promise was awesome, but it was over too soon. And my favourite scene was of Jude Spanken onsighting the E6 in Wales. One aspect that the hotaches guys did well in E11 was showing the buildup to the climb and a bit of the background of the climber. But in Committed that was missing, it would have been more interesting for the climbers to describe the the climb themselves in their own words rather than the over the top narration. For all this criticism i did enjoy committed a lot, i just don't think it lived up to my high expectations, especially with such a great trailer. I'm glad i bought the DVD and I'm already eager for the next installment of Committed.

Oh and the extras are pretty good on both DVDs. The 'Keen Youth' extra on Committed is really cool, too bad there was not more like this. And on King Lines you get to see other people like Dave Graham and Jibe Tribout climb hard in the Additional Footage section. And the outtakes are pretty hilarious especially the part with Dave Graham rambling on about being a climbing superhero or something like that.

Return to Leavenworth

This weekend Laura Micah and I made the three and half hour drive out to Leavenworth again. The weather this weekend was much better than last, it got up into the 70's and sunny all weekend. First off we went up to the Clamshell Cave area, where we warmed up on a few easier climbs, the best being a V3 called Crimp, Crimp, Slap, Throw. And Micah and I also flashed an easy V4 next to it.

Dom setting up for the throw on Crimp, Crimp, Slap, Thow V3

Next we headed down to Barneys Rubble a new (to us) area. On the south side of the road we found a cool V5 that goes up a small dihedral on a tall boulder, I got it second go after figuring out the beta, it was a lot of fun. Then we checked out the boulder on the beach that had a V7 and a V8 on it. The V7 was slopey and powerful, we spent a lot of time falling off of it and probably wasted too much time on it. The only other chalk on the boulder didn't seem to match the description of the V8 on the boulder, but we tried it anyway. It started on some slopers, then campused up to a good slot then a crimp then finished up on jugs to top out. After a few goes I stuck the first crux move then cruised up to finish. Micah got really excited thinking I'd done my first V8, but I'm pretty sure the V8 is just to the right and this is a problem not in the guide, it felt more like V5. Micah got it straight afterwards and agreed with the V5 grade. I put it on my scorecard as 'Sandy Campus' not very original I know.

Laura on Cleaver Crack V0

We then headed over the road to the north part of Barneys Rubble, where we worked on a cool looking problem called The Rubb' Dyno V8. It starts off on a crimpy sidepull on a slabby/vertical wall, you cross through to tiny credit card crimps, and tiptoe your feet over on even smaller footholds, where you have to stand up and jump diagonally up and right to the juggy finishing rail. It looks easy but then you get on it and realize how small the holds are. After working it for a while I got to the dyno position and to my surprise I was able to slap just below the jug. I decided to really go for it, and gave it everything. I got up and latched the jug! I got my whole hand on it, then I felt my feet swing from under me and the momentum took me flying off. I managed to clear both mats and spotters and landed hard on the boulders downhill. I banged my knee pretty bad, but was more disappointed about getting so close on what should have been my first V8. I got back on it, but couldn't commit to the last move, and by that point the sharp crimpers had given a bloody flapper on one of my tips. So I hobbled on to the next problem. As a consolation Micah and I both flashed a V6, our first V6 flash for both of us. The problem was a sit start with a lot of chalked holds up a short wall to a tricky top out. Micah studied the holds for a while. Then managed to lock off and skip half the holds and did well to keep his cool on the top out. Micah's beta worked really well for me but it was still a struggle, but with a bit of encouragement I managed to grovel over the top. It was good to have at least one hard send in the bank from this trip.

With fading daylight we quickly drove down to the road for one more area, The Sword. At the first boulder in the sword laura made a proud flash of a V3, a technical slabby highball, her foot popped right near the top, but she held the barn door and topped out for only her second V3 flash. In the Sword area had some cool looking problems but they were mostly highballs, some of them way highball. Micah threw himself at a jumpy V7. But it was getting dark, so we did a V2 then headed into town for dinner.

Micah working Cattlegueard Arete at Mountain Home Road

The next day I woke up with a sore leg but some skin left on most of my fingers, so felt optimistic about getting stuff sent. We checked out the JY boulders, which were cool but pretty rough, it was tough to get used to it. We all flashed a V2 there, but weren't so successful with the rest of the stuff so we decided to go to a different area. We went to Mountain Home Road which lies apart from the rest of the boulders a few miles drive away. It has a much different feel than the Icicle or Tumwater canyons. Its out in the open on the side of a hill, and feels quite remote. We felt pretty exposed when we were told by some other boulderers to watch out for hunters, who were hunting cougars and black bear on the same hill. We didn't know what to be more weary of the hunters or the cougars and bears! The boulders here are more like Squamish granite, very rough on the skin and not many features. And the ratings here for the most part felt pretty stout, I got shut down on a V1 slab here, but Laura managed to flash it, so I guess it couldn't have been that hard. I did manage a couple of 3's and a 4 but by this point my skin was too sore to pull down hard on small crimps. Laura also managed a V3 here second go, she could have flashed it but I might have given her bad beta, oops! We decided just to head back from here since we were all feeling a little sore and weak at this point. It wasn't quite the sendfest weekend we were hoping for, but you can't complain about a weekend in the sun in a beautiful place like Leavenworth.

Rainy October Weekend

Fall has definitely arrived here in the Pacific Northwest, the rain poured and the prospect for climbing outside didn't look good. Perfect timing then for the first annual South Sound Pull Down, the eagerly awaited climbing competition here in Olympia.

The warehouse crew Steven, Daniel, Nick, Jimmy etc. did a great job of stripping all the bouldering walls and setting 55 problems the day before. They were hoping for 30-40 entrants, but with the bad weather a total of 65 turned up, which was a great turnout. Despite Nick and Jimmy setting problems there was still a strong field in the male advanced category. The favourite going into the competition had to be Micah, who is on fire both in routes and bouldering at the moment, and has a good taste for plastic from working at the evergreen wall. Then there was George and Whitey having climbed indoors all summer and looking very strong. Then there was me, who apart from the past 2 weeks hadn't climbed indoors all summer. Plus any unknowns who might come to the comp. Unfortunately Laura had to work that day, so couldn't compete, but would have certainly finished highly in the womans category.

A busy day at the Warehouse

At 2pm the climbing started, everyone got off to a good start with some big cheers for George and Whitey for sending some hard stuff early on. Micah was a little worried after struggling on some problems he should have done with ease. After flashing a couple moderate problems. I decided to try some harder problems, and flashed a 590. I was really pleased with the flash and thought that might just put me ahead of the rest of the crowd. But soon after George and Micah also flashed it easily and whitey got it second go. Uh oh, I thought these guys are strong! Next up was a crimpy 600 which Micah cooly flashed, he was back on his game. I managed to flash it straight after him using his beta. I was in a good position at this point.

Each competitors top 5 highest scoring climbs would count towards their overall score, with a 5 point deduction for each fall. At this point I had 5 climbs rated 530 and up, with just one fall. As far as I could tell I was just ahead of the pack having done all the same problems but with less falls. There was only half an hour left. There was one hard crimpy problem worth 610 points that I tried at the start which I thought might just go. I knew it was my style, technical balancy and crimpy. I got on it. I got past the first crimpy moves, got my feet up, stemmed and matched on the last slopey crimps. I could see the finishing jug, I lunged and latched it, YES! Everyone cheered, there were more people watching than I thought. I knew that would probably be the winning send. In the last few minutes a lot of people tried the problem but no one else succeded, even in the comp after hours no one could get it. With that climb done I handed in my scorecard. Once the scored were tallied the results came out as the following:

1st Dom 2905

2nd Micah 2840

3rd David 2810

4th George 2800

5th Whitey 2755

Dom latches the finishing jug that wins the comp

Its was a great comp and credit should go to the staff at the warehouse for putting it on, I'm looking forward to the next one already.

To top off a great weekend I went out to Little Si with Nick the next day and sent Technorigine a 12c (7b+). I had been climbing well at Little Si recently, I got a 12b (7b) second go last week and flashed another 12b the time before, so I thought I should try something a bit harder. Technorigine is one of the classics of the crag, it's a 30m route that goes right up the middle of World Wall One, overhanging just enough so that it stayed dry even though it was pouring rain. It starts up Aborigine a great 11b (6c+), just after the chains it busts straight into a tricky V4 crux, and from there its another 3 clips of airy steep climbing on big holds over an awesome exposed bulge. I had played on the route a few times before, but never really tried it seriously. On Sunday, I surprised myself by cruising the crux first go then I hung and figured out the sequence above. I dispatched it send go of the day. I got through the crux smoothly again, then got in the zone and cruised the top part, it was so much fun. I clipped the chains leaned back and got soaked from the rain getting lowered down, it was great. Nick did well considering it was his first time on the route, he managed to link past the crux, now he just has to finish off the top section. Its probably my new favorite route at Little Si. Having done this route so quickly its given me renewed confidence for what else I can do there. The Little Si season is not quite over yet!

Leavenworth Bouldering

This weekend Laura Micah and I made the drive out to Leavenworth to check out the bouldering there. The new bouldering guide (which is excellent) just came out this summer which really opens the areas up, so there was no more excuses for not checking it out. I'd heard from different sources that Leavenworth had the best bouldering in the north-west, even better than Squamish, but I'm a big fan of Squamish bouldering so I was skeptical.

The Pimpsqueek Boulder

We hit icicle canyon on Friday night with about 15 minutes of daylight left, so we jumped on the first boulder we saw from the road. It was the fridge boulder, one of the best in the canyon in my opinion. Micah coolly flashed the fridge center (V4) and soon after dispatched the fridge right, a sandbag at V4. I flashed Jumping Spiders, a one move V4, and in the dark Micah sent the Lizard V5. Not bad for a half-hour session. We met Tony and Adam at the campsite, who were in Leavenworth doing trad, and got psyched for the next days bouldering.

Micah on Crimpsqueek V7

On Saturday we started out at mad meadows, with some moderates, we all did a cool V2 called The Scoop which has some of the best holds I've seen on granite. Micah flashed The Crimp V5, without using the crimp he just locked off from the starting hold to the arête, I sent it a bit later using the crimp. We both flashed The Ampitheater V4 negotiating the tricky mantle. Then went over to the Pimpsqueek boulder which is one of the most obvious lines I've ever seen. Unfortunately Pimpsqueek (V9) was a little to high and hard for us to try seriously, but Micah came agonizingly close on Crimpsqueek (V7) which we'll have to go back to. We did a few more problems, The Hueco Problem (V1) which has amazing huge granite huecos. And Laura made her first ever V3 flash, Drugstore Cowboy, a really cool steep pumpfest.

Laura Flashing Drugstore Cowboy V3

We had lunch and hit up a different area called Forestlands. This area has perfect boulders with even better landings. We did The Real Thing (V4) and a few other crimpy classics. Then got on The Sheild, an amazing 6ft? dyno. After finding the right feet, Micah latched the hold and topped it out for his first ever V7. To say he was pleased would be an understatement. I slapped the hold so many times, but never held it, ahh well theres always next time. Micah also sent a V6 on the other side of the boulder, and Laura flashed a stout V2 called Sunny and Steep. Fearing a lack of daylight, we quickly moved on to a new area Twisted tree where Micah and I worked Mr Leftist, a hard V6. After working out the cruxy mantle Micah sent it, but I fell off the last hold twice. I gues it just wasn't my day.

Dom and Laura having lunch on the beach

Sunday we went to Tumwater Canyon and checked out a few of the areas there but we were were a lot more selective in what we tried due to our lack of skin and sore muscles. We did a few fontainebleu-esque slabs and technical problems on the smooth granite of swiftwater north the best being Un-obvious (V3). And Micah pulled another hard climb out of the bag, with a quick send of the steep and powerful Raging Bull (V7). We took a leisurely lunch and siesta in the sun on the beach. Then did a few more climbs, I flashed The Fin a classic V2, but by this point in the trip it took a lot more effort than I normally need on a V2. And Micah made a very bold deep water solo of the beach arête V2. Good job Micah, I'm glad it was you and not me. We finished up the beach area with a problem called Dyno 101 (V3). The name says it all really. I got a nasty flapper latching the jug, but it was worth it.

Micah on Beach Arete V2

So how does the bouldering in Leavenworth compare to Squamish? In my opinion Leavenworth has more and better problems in the grades V1-V7. But I don't think it will ever attract people from overseas to camp out here for the whole summer like Squamish does. The bouldering in Leavenworth is not as concentrated and you need a car to visit all the different areas. But if you don't mind driving between areas, Leavenworth has more quality bouldering than you could ever hope to do. Micah thinks the grades here might be a soft, but I don't think so, I think the climbing is just more powerful and dynamic which is his style.

Micah latches the jug on Dyno 101 V3

This trip taught me a few things. One, that even though I've got more points on my scorecard than Micah, doesn't mean I'm a better boulderer than him. That doing routes 2 or 3 times a week is not enough to get strong, I need to train as well (I bought a 3 month pass to the warehouse yesterday). And best of all, we don't have to drive all the way to Squamish for world class bouldering!

The end of a good weekend

SDS Holmboy Video

Here's a video Micah took of me repeating the Sit Down Start to Holmboy a V6 at Squamish in September. It might take a while to load.

Squamish!

Laura and I had spent a lot of time up at Squamish earlier this summer, but we hadn't been back up in 6 weeks or so, probably because last time we were up there our car broke down, not a fun experience. But with breakdown coverage bought the day before we were prepared this time. I got off work early so Tony, Laura and I headed on up the road. We got in about 6.30 enough time for an evening bouldering session so we dumped our stuff at the campsite and headed for the forest. There were still some familiar faces kicking around from earlier in the summer which was good to see, the last of the Scottish crew were still around for their last week.
We were greeted at Animal Magnetism boulder by Micah and Liz who had headed up earlier in the day. Micah was buzzing from having sent Lounge Act (V6) second go this trip, and was now working the sit-down start to Holmboy the best V6 in the forest. I got my shoes on and made a cool repeat showing Micah my beta. Micah proceeded to ignore my beta and made it through the crux doing it his own way, he got to the good hold at the top of the rail, but then was too pumped to reach the jug and came off, heartbreaker! We decided to save some skin for the rest of the weekend so went back to the campsite for some campground burritos Mmm tasty.

A view of the Stawamus Chief from the campsite

The next morning we headed over to the Smoke Bluffs for some trad action. My last time in Squamish I cruised The Exasperator a classic 10c finger crack on the base of the Grand Wall, so was feeling confident. I decided to try some easier classics like Penny Lane (5.9) and Octopus Garden (5.8) this time, which was fun, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't have my moments on them. I definitely need to work on my jamming skills, I think I plugged in something like 5 pieces of gear in a 15ft section on Octopus Garden. All this sport climbing has turned me into a wuss! I ended the morning on a high note though by cruising a 10b finger crack, which I felt a lot more confident on, I reckon it would get E2 5c back in the UK.

Dom bearing down on Its About Time V6

After lunch Micah and I hit the boulders while Tony and Laura headed back for more trad action, I think they managed to climb the whole day on only 5 star (out of 5) routes! Micah and I started out with a quick send of the hard V4 Timeless, then over to It's About Time one of the best boulder problems in the forest in my opinion. I had done the V5 start of It's About Time before, but was still working on the V6 hanging start. Micah dispatched the V5 second go, then we worked on the V6 start. Micah did the V6 start pretty quickly afterward with a lot of me shouting in his ear to stay on. And he returned the favor shortly afterwards, shouting encouragement at me when I sent it. We were feeling good at sending a V4, V5 then V6, so decided to up it a notch and try some V7's. First was Anubis a steep 2 move power problem, we could do the first move, but gave up on the second move slapping to a cheese grater sloper, we decided that it wasn't worth the pain. We moved on to a slightly less painful V7 Airtight Garage. This problem had been my nemesis this summer, I had gotten close so many times. I don't even like the problem, its just that I'm so close I feel obliged to finish it off. But after an hour or repetedly falling off we decided it wasn't very fun and moved on with much less skin than we started with. Eating fries that night was a bit painful on our tender tips.

Micah flashing the classic lowball The Mantis (V4)

The next morning micah and I bouldered again while Laura and Tony tradded it up. Micah was low on power and couldn't finish of Holmboy, I guess it'll have to wait til next time. WE then got on a V7 I had been recommended called Immunity Challege in the Survivor area. It is such a sweet line, it take a line of micro basalt crimps on a steep boulder. Its long for a squamish problem as well, 12 hard moves with little rest. At first I didn't think I could hang the crimps, but I fought through the pain and within an hour I had all the moves sussed I just had to link them all. We were low on time and I knew my skin could only take one more good attempt, I screamed my way through the opening crimps with micah shouting at me to stay on. I latched the lip of the boulder, made the crux throw up to the good crimp, but just couldn't hold on for the cross-through to the jug, just one move off! I knew that was it for me I guess it'll have to wait til next trip, maybe next year. But at least I have something to look forward to eh? Definitely an inspiring line.

Dom sticks the sloper on Airtight Garage V7

We got some lunch then we all headed out for a group boulder session, just doing some easier stuff V2's and 3's, and Micah got a couple more V5's to top off the weekend. We made the obligatory stop off at the Wigan Pier for the best Fish and Chips this side of the Atlantic before we headed home. We were back in Olympia by 2am. All in all a good weekend!

Also Congrats to Nick who finally sent his long term project Chain Reation 12c (7b+) this weekend down at Smith!

Bobs Area

I made the most of my Labour Day off from work by checking out Bob's Area on Mt Washington at Exit 38. Micah had been once before, but Laura and I hadn't been so were keen to check it out. It's a grueling walk-in, 1 hour up a steep trail to the first crag. It would be a nice walk if you were into that kind of thing, but we're just lazy climbers so it was tough for us.

Laura onsighting Posthumous Joy and Elation 10c (6b)

Laura really climbed well, she onsighted a couple of tricky routes, a 10c (6b) and 10d (6b+) which equals her hardest onsight previously. I tried to onsight a couple harder routes, an 11d and a 12a (7a and 7a+) but I got spanked on both of them. I don't know if these routes were hard for the grade, or if my onsighting skills have gone down the pan. Probably a bit of both. It was nice trying some easier routes as well though, Micah and I did do a cool 11b (6c+). The rock quality up here is far superior to other areas at 38 like Nevermind and Amazonia, and I'm sure would be a lot more popular if they were as close to the parking lot as those areas. We finished off the day as the sun was setting with a couple of routes at Valley View West.

Laura hanging out on Stairway to Heavin' 10a (6a)

It was nice to have a laid back day as a contrast to the intense Little Si sessions we've been having lately. I would definitely return again soon if it wasn't for the walk-in.