New Year, New Beginning

What a fantastic year 2012 was. I made some great climbing memories last year. Some that stand out were Red Rocks with Austin and Kevin, 22 routes in a day with Chris, Leavenworth with Tony, Smith with Austin, and Tieton, Vantage, and Banks Lake group trips, I could go on. What really made these trips so much fun was the great company. I'm realizing my motivation for climbing is changing. I used to be very focused on grades and numbers, sometimes to the detriment of my enjoyment. But what I really value are the experiences, sharing amazing times with good friends. I want that to be the goal of my climbing in 2013. I don't know how hard I am going to climb but I'm really excited about just sharing time outside with friends and climbing whatever looks fun. My perspective has changed a lot in the last couple of months. I have become a Christian and with it I feel a sense of fulfillment that I could never achieve through climbing. I love climbing, but in the past it had become an unhealthy focus. I now feel I have much more to look forward to. I am really excited about where I will go in climbing with this new perspective. I am already planning my spring break trip, thinking about summer climbing plans and beyond, and weekend trips to Vantage are just a couple months away. Bring on 2013!

6 days in Vegas

I found myself back in Las Vegas last week in a very different mindset from when I was there a couple of months ago. I had got time off work and booked this trip a few weeks ago, but as the date approached I was regretting my decision to book it for that long. In the end though I had an amazing time! I flew down with Austin, and met up with Kevin who was staying there with his Aunt. We had the perfect balance of a taste of Vegas living in the hostel on the strip, and delicious homecooked meals every day after climbing courtesy of Kevin's awesome Aunt. We climbed 3 days on, had one wild night out on the strip, took one rest day, then climbed another two days, it worked pretty well.

I could go into details about what routes we got on each day, but its so hard to capture the feeling, so I'll let the photos do the talking. In summary, I climbed a LOT, mostly steep juggy sport routes which I love. I sent a handful of easy 12's quickly, and worked a few 12c's and d's but with no send. Austin climbed out of his skin, he managed a 12a flash, and gave double digit attempts on a hard 12a and 12b, but didn't manage to get the send. Kevin was climbing strong, and managed to climb his first ever 12a, then his second, then his third! If both these guys build up their endurance they could be sport climbing machines! I'm already looking forward to get back out on a rope with these guys, it was so much fun!

Flashing the Red Rock classic 12a, Fear and Loathing.

Improvising a stick-clip.

Drinking a beer trading beta on a hard project.

Working an amazing 12c roof climb.

Another 12 that got away.

A familiar feeling for Austin, hanging on his project.

A really fun 12b that eluded Austin.

Cool Shadow.

Trying a steep 12b on the last day.

South Sound Pull Down 2012

Its hard to believe this was the 6th annual South Sound Pull Down at the Warehouse Rock Gym. It doesn't seem that long ago that Jimmy and Nick had the idea to put together the first climbing comp in Olympia back in 2007. I've competed in them all, and have even won it before. If you go back through my blog you can read about each one around this time every October. Last year I put up a strong performance in the Men's Advanced category. This year my expectations were low, I can count on one hand the number of days I've climbed in the last month inside and out. I'm probably in the worst climbing shape I've been in since I moved to the US which is a sobering thought. I'm not sure what I'm going to do to change that, but I definitely not a big fan of the title of "the guy that used to climb hard".

Head Route Setters for the Comp, Laura and Nick

On comp day energy levels were high, it was great seeing new and old friends. I climbed with fellow "old guys" Boon and Whitey. We were climbing mostly the same problems, but I managed to do a couple they couldn't. I think the hardest thing I did was probably only V5. I had a great time though, and that is what really matters. I think I ended up in 8th in my category or something like that.

Later that night I redeemed myself with a winning entry in the 3rd annual post comp Chili Cookoff hosted by Boon. I took first place with my delicious slow-cooked beef stew chili! And as a bonus there was a decent cash prize this year.

Me with my winnings!

Middle Fork Bouldering

Throughout the summer a group of boulderers from Olympia have been developing a new bouldering area near north bend. I finally checked it out yesterday with my roommate Jeremy who has done a lot of the fa's there, and Boon. I was impressed, the rock quality is great, and it is in a beautiful setting.

The majority of the developed problems are easy to moderate, which is great for me since I'm not in the best bouldering shape right now. Jeremy toured us around the rat-trap boulders, the cave area boulders, bean slug boulder, roadside boulder and other boulders that I forget the name of. Given its proximity to Seattle, and the quality of the problems, I can see this area getting pretty popular once the word gets out. Chase, one of the main developers put the blog www.northbendbouldering.blogspot.com together which has a lot of photos and gives a bit of the background of the development.

Smokey Leavenworth

I decided to head out to Leavenworth with a big group of people at the last minute over the weekend. I had a good time, checked out a few different crags, and climbed some fun routes. Icicle canyon was eerily quiet because of nearby fires. We saw the flames close up when we were going over Blewett Pass, it was scary how close we got. Throughout the weekend the canyon got more and more smokey, it cast a red hue on everything which was pretty cool. The highlight was climbing Condorphamine Addiction with Tony. Its a 7 pitch bolted 10b, we linked it into 4 pitches and got a crux pitch each, I would highly recommend it.

At the top of Condorphamine Addiction, notice the smoke in the background.

By Sunday it started getting really smokey.

Vegas!!!

I'm In the Las Vegas airport coming back from an incredible weekend. I went down to see a girl I met in Fiji. We had a crazy time, as with any trip there were some setbacks. I missed my flight down, so had to pay for another ticket the next morning, we bought cirque du soleil tickets for the wrong week, and I lost a chunk of money playing blackjack at the $50 minimum bet table, oops!

But we had some really good times as well. We lived it up at a big hotel on the strip and I felt like a baller cruising around in my 2013 mustang convertible rental. Partying all night to Calvin Harris at XS nightclub was incredible! I even got out bouldering at Red Rocks today despite a brutal hangover and 100 degree temps. The Kraft boulders are really good, I got shut down on anything remotely difficult. But it was good to check it out.

It's going to be strange going back to normal life after this. I'm seriously considering flying back down this weekend again. I don't think it would be good for my bank account though.

A big day out

I'm back in the swing of climbing after one of my longest breaks since I started climbing. Climbing in the gym last week and hanging on a 10c was discouraging, but my fitness usually comes back quickly and I don't typically perform well in there anyway. Yesterday Chris and I hiked up to Bob's Area at Exit 38 with a plan to climb a lot. I love climbing with Chris, its always a lot of fun and we make a good team climbing really efficiently. We had managed 8 routes each by the time we took a break for lunch at noon. We finished off all the routes at the Peannacle then headed up to Slumbersome Ridge. Not all the routes we did were easy, I climbed an 11d that I had tried and failed on in the past, and I onsighted/flashed a couple of 11c's as my 17th and 18th route of the day. The hardest route I did that day though was the 10d at The Stein. It was really overgrown with moss, and I found myself dynoing between mossy ledges skipping bolts because I couldn't take a hand off to clip, luckily I sent it! We even did a few trad routes despite not bringing a rack. The final tally for the day for me was 22 routes led cleanly which surpasses my old record, only 12 of them were new to me though. Chris led 19 routes, all of his were new. I've now climbed everything at Bob's Area with the exception of an unclimbable overgrown 10b crack. I love big days out like this, it makes we want to do more. I think I could beat this record if I planned it out, but if I want to do new routes I'd have to find different crags. Its something I could see myself getting in to, there are even competitions like this that I know I would love.

A well earned homebrew in a beautiful spot. This is why I love climbing!