First Blog

I decided to get one of these blogs because I couldn’t contain my excitement for climbing anymore. I’m an avid reader of climbing blogs, from professional climbers to people I’ve met along the way to random people who I’ve never met, but still get psyched from reading their blogs.

Who am I? In the words of my girlfriend, I’m probably the most psyched climber she knows, with the possible exception of Dave MacLeod after watching E11. And as the title of my blog suggests I’m obsessed with grades, but in a good way if that’s possible.

I’m originally from Aberdeen, Scotland. I started climbing in 2001 on the sea cliffs of Aberdeen and the Pass of Ballater, and bouldering at Portlethen and the Luath Stones where I even have a boulder problem named after me, its given 4b but I still maintain its at least 4c. In 2002 I went to Stirling Uni where I studied Wolfcrag crimping, and also went to a few classes. I did my harderst boulder problems at Wolfcrag that probably weigh in at about Font 7A (V6), and got into hard (for me) trad. During this phase I headpointed a couple of E5s, Nijinski at Auchinstarry a classic protectionless arete which I soloed, and The Purr-Blind Doomster at Cambusbarron a bold E5, that probably weighs in a F7a (5.11+) climbing with whipper potential. Ironically at the time I probably climbed harder trad routes than I’d sport climbed. But the options for mid-level sport climbing in Scotland are limited. It took me over 3 years to tick my first F6c so I’ve by no means been tearing through the grades. In 2005 I met my girlfriend at university, an american named Laura, then the next year when I graduated I emigrated to Olympia, Washington to live with her.

Living in the States has been awesome for my climbing. I believe strongly that your climbing environment defines who you are as a climber. And living here in the Pacific Northwest there is an abundance of sport climbing. I’ve been lucky enough to meet some great climbers here who are equally as psyched as me. In particular Micah, Jimmy Nick and I have been pushing each other to climb harder each time we go out. And a testament to that is that we’ve all got our hardest redpoints in the last few months. This year I climbed my first 7b (5.12b) route at Smith Rock in Oregon, which was a landmark moment for me. I felt like I had finally broken into hard climbing, it only took me 6 years! Since then I’ve done a few more 7b’s and a couple of 7b+’s. And my girlfriend Laura is on fire this year as well, she’s climbed her first 5.11a (F6c) and V4 (Font 6B), after climbing less than 2 years which is amazing, I’m pretty jealous, if only I had a pushy boyfriend when I started out climbing ;)

Although I’ve gotten into sport climbing big time, I still love bouldering and try to get up to Squamish as much as I can during the summer and still do the occasional trad route, although the days of scary headpointing are behind me. I feel that for someone with a full-time job I’m doing pretty well at getting out as much as possible and pushing the grades. So how close am I to sending my first 8a? Well I’m working on my first 7c at the moment, but what once seemed like a pipe dream, now feels within reach. So watch this space!

-dom

Photo: Me on Latest Rage at Smith Rock, a sweet 12b arete which i have to go back to redpoint.