Photo: Dom on the lower section of Psychosomatic 12d/7c. ©Micah Humphrey
On Saturday, Micah, Laura and I headed out there and Micah and I got on the route, by now I had tried it so many times that I had all the moves wired. I was climbing well I got up to the crux without too much of a pump, but just couldn't stick the crux. I could do it every time with just one hang, I couldn't be closer, I gave it 3 good attempts on Saturday, Micah and I were both so close but still had to wait to link it all. I decided to move on and try some other routes. We all did a cool 10c/6b on the far left side of the wall. Then we went down to the woods to try a route there.
Photo: Laura sending a 10c/6b on the left hand side of World Wall I. ©Micah Humphrey
I tried to onsight a 12b/7b route called Digitalis, a little girl and her dad even came over to watch the rock climbers. I gave them a good show, I took a whipper at the crux. I managed to clip the chains with a couple of hangs, then sent it second go, Micah also got it second go. It's a sweet climb, 12 bolts of vertical climbing with a committing crimpy crux. It was a good morale booster to send something hard so quickly, I could definitely feel all my goes on psychosomatic had helped my stamina.
Photo: Dom on Digitalis 12b/7b, at The Woods, Little Si. ©Micah Humphrey
The next day our plans to check out a different area to climb fell through when we woke up to find heavy rain. We knew there was only one option – back to the overhung wall of World Wall I and Psychosomatic. The temps were good, and I was feeling good. I got up to the crux really smoothly, barely feeling a pump, went for the move, hit the slopey crimp crux but the same old story, I got spat off again. I felt calm going for it but I think I was too calm, I needed to really commit.
On my next go, I felt good, I got up to the chains of Psycho-Wussy the 11b/6c+ route it starts up, took a good shake out psyched myself up then went for it. I cruised through the next few clips and got set up for the crux throw. I stared down the hold and went for it. A second later and my fingers were still on it, I stuck the move!
I could hear Micah and Laura cheering from below, but I was way too scared to make any noise, don't mess up now I kept thinking to myself. I got my feet up, bumped my left hand up to the next sidepull, then one last move to the jug. YESS! I screamed when I latched the jug, I knew I was good from here, I skipped the last bolt there was no way I was going to fall now, I traversed over to the chains clipped them, and slumped into my harness. The excitement the relief and the accomplishment, this is why I climb!
I sent it on my 12th redpoint attempt, its the longest I've ever spent on a single route, but the payoff was well worth it. I couldn't have done it without Micah working it with me! It won't be long before he sends it too, at least I hope so, he's on redpoint number 18!
Photo: Laura working Psycho-Wussy 11b/6c+ on toprope. ©Micah Humphrey
1 comment:
Micah finally sent psychosomatic this weekend! 9/29/07. It took him a bit longer than he would have liked, but he got it on his 28th attempt. Congrats Micah!
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