A new project

I had promised myself a rest day yesterday after too many days in a row climbing. But then Micah offered a ride up to Little Si that was too good to refuse, so off we went. It took us three hours to get there because of a terrible accident on I-5 that we were stuck behind for a while, so once we got there we were in a rush to get things done. Once again we warmed up at Blackstone, then Laura and I moved onto the Woods while Micah and Greg headed up to World Wall I. I wanted to get on a route called Bioclamactic Quandry, its a mixed sport/trad route that gets 4 stars in the guide. I wanted to do it all trad, running out the bolts, I got past the first three bolts placing one wire, then there was a bomber finger crack for the middle section that took great gear. Then the crack ended and there was another 4 bolts of airy thin slab climbing with no other gear before the chains, I figured it just wasn't worth it to skip the bolts, it would be really scary, but it was still a great route I'd recommend it. Its listed in the best routes at exit 32 list at the end of the guide, which of the 28 routes listed below 13a I've done 24, which ain't bad. I did a couple more short routes on the far right hand side of the Woods, before we headed up to WWI.

I got on Son of Jesus, but was unsure what to get on after that, I'm not really motivated to repeat routes I've already done. I figured I'd check out a route called Judgement Day Direct or PC7 as the locals call it because its supposedly glued (although I didn't see any). I had tried the start briefly the other day, but wasn't really feeling motivated then. This time it felt a lot more doable, I got past the first crux then dogged my way up, checking out the holds. They were surprisingly good, small but very positive and crimpy. It goes up the steepest part of WWI probably 20 degrees overhanging, so you need good holds. I managed to figure out a good sequence and I clipped the chains, this might go I though to myself, it was a lot more doable than I was expecting for a 12d (7c).

I got lowered down and pulled the rope, I was going to give it a redpoint attempt, I said I'd be happy to get it down to one-hang, but secretly I though there was a chance I'd send it right then. I made it past the first crux, a big throw to a jug, then through the crimpy section and the big move going out right, I had to skip a bolt cause I couldn't take a hand off to clip, but the next one was close anyways. I got to a decent shakeout, only two more hard moves to go before the victory jug, I lunged up to the sidepull, got my fingers on it, but couldn't hold on, I was off. Man so close! I got back on and fired off the move next try and clipped the chains, at least I got it down to one hang, but I felt robbed, I could have finished it off there and then.

I got lowered off since it was getting dark and Micah wanted to give it a quick shot. He dogged his way up through the first bolts figuring out the sequence. He then tried the big move going out right off the small crimp, and disaster struck, he pulled off the crucial crimp! He took a bit of a whipper in the process, but was ok, but to be honest I was more concerned about the hold and whether the route will still be possible. He says there is now a smaller sharper crimp, so hopefully that will still be enough. I'm really excited to have this project now, and can't stop thinking about it I think I was starting to feel a bit jaded about World Wall I, but now I'm psyched to get back there and finish off a new project!

This afternoon I'm heading down to the quarry it'll be my 8th day climbing out of 9, 6 of those outside, tomorrow is definitely a rest day!