2011

Well it’s another new year, and that means I need to post my goals for the year. Looking back 2010 was another great year from a climbing perspective, I got out to new places, climbed hard and had a lot of fun. I climbed 191 new routes, which was less than what I’d done the previous two years but its still a good amount considering it rained for half the year. My 8a.nu route score went down a little, but I still had a pretty solid base of 12a onsights, and I managed to redpoint a 5.13a for my third year running which I’m really proud of. I got out bouldering a few times, and even though I wasn’t taking it as seriously as in previous years I still managed two (albeit soft) V8’s in Leavenworth. I did a handful of trad routes, but didn’t really get into it until towards the end of the year, my flash of Wartley’s Revenge at Smith has really got me psyched for getting on harder trad this year.


2011 is going to be a big year for me, I predict a lot of changes in my life. I graduate in June, and I’ll be looking for a teaching job. Where I end up will have a major impact on how much I climb and what kind of climbing I do. I would love to land a job in the Olympia area, but with the way the job market is now, that looks very unlikely. I will most likely have to move to get a full time teaching job, I’m just not sure yet how far I’m willing to move. One thing I know though, is that wherever I go there must be good climbing close by.

I know where I’m going to be the first half of this year though, and while I’m here I want to make the most of it. I hope to get out on some early season trips out to Vantage and Smith Rock focusing on trad. I’m planning a week-long smith trip for spring break, where I want to get on some harder trad routes, like Sunshine Dihedral, any other trad recommendations? Then once the weather gets better I can see myself spending a lot of time up in Squamish, goals are to get more efficient climbing longer trad routes, like Angel’s Crest, Squamish Buttress and The Grand Wall. And try to improve my trad onsight and redpoint levels. Over the summer I’m also keen to get on some big mountain routes in the Cascades, something I haven’t really done yet. I’m also really excited about going back to Tensleep WY, the climbing there is so much fun. I think the style suits me, and if I am in good shape going into the trip and spend a good amount of time on a project I think I’ve got a good chance of climbing my first 8a (5.13b) there. I think the theme for this year is to push myself mentally and physically to break boundaries. Here are a handful of my goals for this year, I think they are pretty ambitious.

1. redpoint 5.12c trad
2. onsight 5.11d trad
3. climb 5.11 trad multipitch
4. onsight 5.10 trad mountain route
5. redpoint 13b (8a) sport
6. climb 300 new routes clean
7. climb 30 pitches in a day
8. have fun bouldering with friends

What do you all think of my goals for this year?