Getting Burned at Vantage

Just back from a hot weekend at Vantage. Man, I love that place. It feels a million miles away from Olympia. We were in a group of about a dozen, we got on some routes I've done before, some I haven't, swam in the river, drank lots of beer, ate lots of hot dogs, bonfired, it was a great weekend. I'll let the photos do the talking.

We put the "ow" in crowds!

Surprisingly Justin wasn't the whitest person there

Riverview Park

Riding in the back of the truck with Rachel and Sara

Esteban catching some rays down at the river.

How can you not have a smile on your face when its this nice out!

Oh yea, I did some climbing too. Here I am flailing on a stout 11a. I got it 2nd go.

The Return of the Sun

Over Spring break I didn't get as many days out climbing as I was hoping for, partly due to the weather, but I also just needed a rest. I did get out for two days at Vantage. Tony, Laura and I headed out to Vantage and climbed for a day just the three of us. It was a great day, we managed to get a number of routes in even thought it was just the three of us. Then the next day we were joined by a few others. It was a beautiful couple of days in the sun.

The following Saturday the forecast showed sun again so I picked up Andrew from Seattle and we headed out to the Far Side of Exit 38. I had long wanted to climb the multipitch routes at Neverland, so we went out there and ended up having the crag to ourselves. We did the 3 pitch route The Plank (5.9, 10a, 5.7) which was really good, I led the first two pitches, the first was a little seepy, but the second was sublime. We also did a 3 pitch 5.9,5.9, 10c, and a two pitch 10c, 10c. I was really impressed with this small crag, the rock was generally very good, and it felt great to get up high on some routes. It was also really nice to have the whole place to ourselves.

Leading the awesome 10a pitch of The Plank

Enjoying the view, about halfway up Neverland

 Last Saturday called for another good weather day, so I texted around and found a partner in Jeremy. We decided to head to the Deception area. It had been a while since I climbed at this area, I tend to avoid it because of the crowds and associated sketchiness. But there were a number of routes I hadn't done there yet, and it was Jeremy's first time there so I could bring him wherever. I got on a couple of neglected little gems, like Won't Get Fooled Again, a sweet 10a that starts up on Deception Ledge. I also got a surprise at the chains of The Overture an 11a high on deception wall, when I was stared down by nesting peregrine falcon. I got out of there pretty quick. In all we managed to lead 10 routes (9 of which were new to me). I've decided to keep a running tally of the total number of routes I've climbed on the sidebar here ----> Hopefully that will keep my motivation for getting on new routes up. Not that I need it right now. Tomorrow I'm headed out to Vantage with a big crew, it should be a fun weekend, but I don't think I'm going to manage the huge haul of 19 routes in a day I did this time last year.

Where have I been?

Its been a while since I last blogged. The longest time since I started this blog actually. Well I haven't gone away. I just haven't had much to write about climbing-wise. Since last time I blogged about Fossil Rock the weather hasn't really allowed for much climbing. Also this winter I've been doing some other activities. I got a mountain bike which has been fun, I can see myself getting into it. And I've also gotten into skiing, its so much fun! I've got my own gear now and a season pass to white pass next winter, I'm already looking forward to it.

But my psyche for climbing is in full force right now. I was just planning out my last couple of months of lessons at school, and it dawned on me how close summer is! I'm brainstorming trip ideas, I think I'm going to stay stateside, but there are a lot of places to climb within a 1000 mile (or so) radius of here. More on that in another post.

I have been loving my first year of teaching, not only because my students are so awesome! But also because my school is so supportive of me teaching what I want. This winter I taught PE once a week, and took the kids to the Warehouse Rock Gym. It was so much fun! Some of the kids had real potential, I had to try my hardest when we did the toprope races! I tried to get photos of me in teacher mode, but my students aren't the best photographers.

In a couple of days I've got a week off for spring break, the weather looks iffy, but right now I think I may be able to sneak a trip to Vantage and Smith. I feel like I've got a few months of climbing energy stored up in me. Thinking about all the climbing I'm going to do this summer definitely makes the late nights at school so much more worth it. Speaking of which, I better get back to work.

Climbing in January

When friends wanted to climb last week, I was eager but skeptical since it is still January. Tyler Austin and I biked out to Fossil Rock, for only my second visit there. We were surprised to find other climbers there, but there were plenty of dry routes to get on, and it was surprisingly nice in the sun. I was feeling a little out of shape, I fell on an 11c to left of Battle of the Bulge, which I know I would have done with ease if I was climbing regularly. But still managed to get up some other fun routes. We had one golf ball sized pebble pop off and nearly get me, but despite that constant threat, I still enjoyed the climbing. I'm keen to get back there, there's a good handful of routes that I've yet to get on, and now I know that its fine to climb there in the winter.

Austin sending Battle of the Bulge

The view from the crag

Me enjoying the vertical crimpy test pieces

Dry Spell

The blog has gone a bit quiet recently. I'd like to say its because I've been too busy climbing to update, but the truth is that I've had a bit of a dry spell of late. I know its not really an excuse, but I have been absolutely loving teaching, and giving it my all pulling long hours has left me exhausted on the weekends. Its been just too hard to consider a weekend trip to Smith or Vantage. People have told me that its been one of the driest Falls in recent memory, but I just haven't had the time/energy to enjoy it. Hopefully I will be able to find a better balance this upcoming winter/spring.

I have managed one day out recently though. It was a crisp, clear Saturday in December, and Jeremy, Derik, David and myself headed up to test the friction at Gold Bar. I've always been skeptical of those who swear by bouldering in near-freezing conditions, but I've got to say, after this trip I might be a convert. I had been thinking about a certain couple of V6's on the Five Star Boulder ever since I was last there back in 07 (wow i feel like an old man saying things like that). My goal was to climb at least one of them. It was too cold to consider warming up, plus the boulder doesn't really have any warm ups, so I got straight on Green Padded Ass. The starting sloper rails felt like jugs with the cold crystals gripping into my dry skin. As I climbed higher the slopers got worse, my feet cut off, but there was no way my hands were losing contact with the rock, then I was topping it out on icy jugs. My first climb of the day, and I'd already met my goal. I almost sent Five Star Arete as well, but the finish jug was a little too damp to allow me to hold the swing. We then moved on to the river boulders at Index, my first time there and I was impressed. I got on the excellent Leggo my Eggo, and some river polished boulders that were HARD! It was fun taking turn and sessioning with the guys. I'm looking forward to getting back to these areas, especially since I now know that Green Padded Ass actually starts with a V0 sit-start, so I can't quite add it to my scorecard just yet. I'll just have to make sure I get back out there in equally cold conditions, otherwise I might have to try a bit harder.

Jeremy floating up the Five Star Arete, the rock is as good as it looks!

The hold just above his right hand was just damp enough to shut us down.

 

The picturesque, but deceptively hard River boulders. It is waay colder than Derik's and David's attire suggests.

The ever faithful Sasha! The river wasn't too cold for her.

South Sound Pull Down 2011

Another year has gone by and its comp season again. The big (and only) climbing competition of the year in Olympia is the South Sound Pull Down, its usually a big deal in the local community and this year was no exception. With Jimmy at college up in Seattle the setting duties fell to Derik, Jeremy, Drew, Lisa, Laura, Chas, Chris and a few others, sorry if I didn't mention you by name. They did a fantastic job and everyone had a great day.

I don't really consider myself much of a boulderer nowadays, I haven't made a single Leavenworth bouldering trip this year. But I feel I can still hold it down on the boulders when I want to. Going into the comp I had flashed a few V6's in the gym, but hadn't really tried anything harder. I entered the Male Advanced category and thought I'd have a good chance at the title.

A harder problem I completed, a 800 point burly roof problem to a nasty crimpy finish that weighs in at around V6.

On comp day a number of out-of-towners showed up, which was great to see. In my category there were a couple of strong guys from Tacoma competing against me. I kept my eye on them, and we were pretty much neck and neck until I managed to unlock a tricky high scoring slab problem, which put me over the top. Just like last year though a competitor from the Intermediate category somehow beat my score (by only 10 points!), but I wasn't too concerned as they still called me out first when it came to the prizes and I picked up by far the most valuable prize, a gift certificate to a course offered by the American Alpine Institute worth $790! I plan on using it on a Single Pitch Instructor course which I'm really looking forward to. Thanks again to Sierra and everyone at the gym for organizing such a great comp and getting such awesome prizes!

Stoked about my prize, and the medals were a nice touch!

Fall Weekends

Its been a little while since my last post, and looking back at my previous one, it feels like a lot has changed. The rain has come and we are deep into fall here. I've been climbing more indoors, but have still managed a couple of weekend trips. A few weekends ago Tony and I drove out to Vantage and met up with some other folks there for a fun weekend. I was pretty tired from work, so didn't really feel like pushing myself, but I never really do at Vantage. It was nice just to be outside having fun with friends.

Tony showing us how to "plank" on top of The Cob at Corn Wall

Last week I made it out to Tieton and met up with a good group from Olympia. It was many peoples first time climbing at Tieton so we started out at The Cave area which had something for everyone. We managed to avoid the dozen or so rattlesnakes we encountered and I did a few new (to me) routes there, which were really fun. After an excellent campfire Saturday night, Chas and I got our trad gear out at The Bend. According to the notes in my guidebook, it had been exactly 5 years and a week since I last climbed at this crag. I don't know why I hadn't been back since, because the routes are great. I felt pretty challenged warming up on a 5.8 hand crack, but decided I'd be more comfortable on a 10c finger crack. There was one point up high in the climb where I was in a sketchy spot above a half-set small nut and a tcu with only two lobes in. I swore at myself for putting myself in that situation but I managed to get through it and can now look back on it and laugh. Chas opted wisely to just top-rope that one. After that experience it may be a while til I get my trad gear out again, but most likely I'll forget about it until the next time I do a route like that. Here's a few photos of the Tieton trip from Tyler.

The routes on the middle wall at The Cave are phenomenal, I just wish there were more of them.

Mark's Wall at The Cave has some pretty awesome routes too!

I don't think I've got many more climbing trips in me this year. Maybe a Smith trip in November. I'm loving teaching but it leaves me pretty tired on the weekends, and its nice to able to have a relaxing weekend in town, like I did this weekend.