Real Rock

This weekend I got out on real rock for the first time since November! It was really nice to be pulling on cold stone instead of warm greasy plastic holds. My regular partners were out of town, Micah in Seattle and Laura in Portland, but I managed to recruit Jared, from the climbing team to come out with me. The weather had been dry all week, so I was feeling confident that we'd be able to find some dry rock. It was going to be pretty cold though, maybe low 40's if we got lucky. I places like WW1 would be too cold cause its at higher altitude and more sheltered crags like Nevermind would be seeping wet still. But I remember from making a trek out to the Far Side at exit 38 in January two years ago that Gritscone dries out quickly and stays pretty sheltered and mild. So Jared and I headed out there. I decided to lug out 2 mats as well as our rope and draws, figuring it might be fun to do some highballing! But it had been a while since I was last there, and I had forgotten 1) how far it is to walk especially with 2 mats precariously balanced on your back 2) how tall Gritscone actually is. In the end I did manage to use the mats so I guess it was worth it.

Jared and The Gritscone

Gritscone is basicly one big boulder about 30 feet high with a dozen of so routes on it, lying in a pine forest. The guide says its sandstone conglomerate, but I think its more like the type of rhinostone found at little si mixed with basalt. Either way it lends its self to great friction when its cold. And it was COLD! We were prepared for it though, with lots of layers and gloves to put on between routes. And the routes are all pretty short so your fingers don't get numb til you're done with the route. It was a beautiful day out, the sun was peeking through the trees, there was a fresh carpet of green pines on the ground, and the rock was pristine not a dab of chalk on it. Jared and I got started warming up with some easy routes on the right hand side of the block. We both led a 5.5, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, took a quick lunch break. Then Jared onsighted Booty Squirrel a tricky 10c, and went for the 11a. He didn't manage it first go, its quite beta intensive, but once he knew where the holds were he dispatched it second go with ease, commenting it felt easier than the 10c.

Next up was the main challenge, Rough Cut an 11d and the hardest route on the block. I had done it before so I let Jared go for the onsight, after about a 20 minute battle with the route (which is quite an achievement considering the route is only about 20 feet tall) he slumped into his harness confused about how to unlock the sequence. I showed him my beta, then led it one more time to make sure I had it down smooth before I pulled the rope and soloed it. I know I said previously I'm not really into soloing cause of the risks involved, but I didn't really see this as a solo, so much as a highball. Its probably the safest route to highball on the block cause its not slabby so it's a clean fall. The crux is at the top about 20 feet up but the mats were directly below and I had confidence in Jared's spotting. Besides, its probably only a V2, there was no way I was coming off especially with the friction so good. The one tricky part I didn't really factor in was once I got to the chains, there was another 10 feet of pine needle covered slab to get up, that was probably the sketchiest part. With my beta Jared was able to do all the moves and went for the lead, he got past the last clip only to fall going for the last hold! He tried again and got the hold, only to fall off trying to match it. It was just going to be one of those days for him. I did a couple more easy routes (5.7s I think) then we headed back to the car. Although Jared didn't get the route we both had a great day, Jared did his first 5.11 and has good project to come back to. I'm sure he'll get it next time. It was so nice to get out climbing in January, 11 routes in a day is great any time. I had almost started to forget how much fun outdoor routes could be. The weather is looking like it may stay dry this week so fingers crossed we might get out next weekend as well.

Me soloing Rough Cut. And yes I know I have a rip in my trousers.